Jean-Pierre Latour was on fine form when we visited him in October. A smile rarely deserts his welcoming and thoughtful face. This was the first visit of our trip and was the eye-opener that showed that, despite the much-reported heat of the 2018 summer, there were going to be some resounding successes, starting right here. The Latour-Giraud harvest began on 29th August and, while a large harvest, is only of similar volume to 2017 – though double the size of the 2019 vintage to come. The care for and understanding of each individual vineyard is clearly evident in Jean-Pierre’s calm descriptions and explanations: the delicacy of his Bouchères, the need to be quick with the Champs Canet harvest, as night temperatures drop less due to heat-retaining rocks, the attention to detail in his reference-point Genevrières. Alcohol levels here remain around the 13-degree mark and this is reflected in the glass. The wines show healthy fruit, good ripeness, silky, flowing mid-palates and vibrant citrus and mineral energy on the finishes. And they continue to represent such astonishing value.
2018 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£90 per 6 bottle case in bond
Ripe citrus nose with a subtle creamy accent. On the palate, a hint of honey gives depth, but the overriding impression is of a fresh, harmonious Bourgogne Blanc with a lovely yellow grapefruit zing on the balanced finish. Drink 2020-2022
2018 Meursault Les Narvaux, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£210 per 6 bottle case in bond
Aromatic citrus oil and orange cream nose. A silky attack with the palate then filling out with honied apricot and dried pineapple notes, balanced by a yellow grapefruit lift and an appealing stony mineral quality at the end. Drink 2020-2025
2018 Meursault 1er Cru, Les Bouchères, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£240 per 6 bottle case in bond
Smoky notes of bacon fat on the nose lead into a palate of direct, linear precision; great focus and mineral drive. Ripe citrus and nectarine flavours give juicy length. Great energy here. Jean-Pierre Latour describes Bouchères as a fragile cru that needs great care to allow the dynamism to show though. This has certainly been achieved here; a Meursault of delicacy and poise. Drink 2020-2026
2018 Meursault 1er Cru, Les Charmes, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
White flower, hazel and peach notes on the nose. On the palate there is a lifted citrus touch with some grilled grapefruit notes. Honied breadth on the mid-palate with a grapefruit pith grip. This is juicy and mouth-filling but with a vibrant mineral tension. Good length here and great potential for complexity with bottle age. Drink 2022-2028
2018 Meursault 1er Cru, Les Genevrières, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£295 per 6 bottle case in bond
Close, tight yet concentrated on the nose. The palate, while taut, expands with lime and grapefruit power. An intense mineral persistence and zippy, vibrant length bring poise, direction and focus to this excellent Genevrières. Drink 2022-2028
2018 Meursault 1er Cru, Les Genevrières, Cuvée des Pierres, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£380 per 6 bottle case in bond
Immediately more opulent nose – rich, ripe, intense. The palate opens with breadth and intensity but the trademark Genevrières lime fruit core is evident throughout. Great complexity potential and a powerful underlying minerality. Drink 2023-2030
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Champs Canet, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£320 per 6 bottle case in bond
Elegant white flower and subtle yellow citrus fruit on the nose. The palate is tight and mineral with real wet stone grip. Mouth-watering, saline, taut. Good length and backbone with a clean, vibrant flinty touch at the end. Drink 2021-2028
2018 Volnay 1er Cru, Clos des Chênes, Domaine Latour-Giraud
£270 per 6 bottle case in bond
Pure, clean, scented blue fruit character. Lovely freshness and energy. Vibrant, moreish. There is a wonderful sense of harmony throughout with a mineral vein and beautifully balanced tannin structure. Drink 2023-2030