Domaine Méo-Camuzet 2017

Please note: We regret that, just like all fine wine merchants, we are unable to sell leading Grand Cru and Premier Cru or wines from particularly sought after domaines in isolation – we cannot buy them from the domaines that way ourselves and we are aware that demand is sure to outstrip supply. Instead of running a complex system of allocations, we aim to confirm requests shortly after they are made or highlight where we are unable to assist or where a balance might be required to secure a particularly desirable wine.

We have never had anything other than an uplifting tasting at Domaine Lécheneaut.  The wines are possessed by such clarity and precision and seem to get better year on year.  Vincent and Philippe Lécheneaut were both there to greet the five members of Atlas who visited in November to taste the 2017s.  Their commentary on the vintage is always so insightful, informed by their renowned knowledge and skill in managing their vineyards.  For their 2017s, they stressed the importance of early de-budding in order to manage volume.  While many producers may have waited until the frost threat had passed – scarred as they may have been from several years of very low yields –  Vincent and Philippe are of the opinion that the quality will be compromised if you do not restrict your bud numbers at the outset – even if this does leave you open to possible first damage.  This is a clear demonstration of their primary focus: quality of fruit before all else. 

The domaine itself is situated in Nuits-Saint-Georges, but extends over 10 hectares of vines across 18 different appellations with some considerable holdings in Premier Cru vineyards, including Les Pruliers and Les Damodes, as well as a tiny parcel of Grand Cru Clos de la Roche.  Fernand Lécheneaut worked for a négociant house and sold fruit from his own three hectares, purchased in the 1960s.  Over the subsequent years, the family added to their holdings.  It was Fernand’s sons, Vincent and Philippe, who then set themselves up as a fully-fledged domaine in the 1980s. 

Given glowing reviews, significant holdings and evident winemaking talent, it is surprising that this domaine has remained off the radar for so long, though we were pleased to see them mentioned as estate in the ascendant by Tim Atkin MW in Decanter this year. The brothers have accomplished much in the last 30 years and are subsequently very highly-regarded by fellow growers. It was, in fact, a personal recommendation from one such grower that led to our initial interest. The philosophy here includes organic and biodynamic principles which often underline the focus and attentiveness of a grower. The quality of the fruit is key to their success and each vintage we have assessed has demonstrated stunning purity. These are deceptively long-lived wines; while it is the fruit expression that comes to the fore, there is an underlying structure of great presence. High class Burgundy, indeed.