With the speed at which he talks it is not always easy to catch what Olivier Lamy says. He does recognise this and offers to speak in English. In which he speaks yet more quickly. What we did catch was that he began his harvest on 22nd August, that in 2018 there was 30% more light than a normal vintage, that this benefits white more than reds and that, while in most warmer vintages, you taste the vintage more than the terroir, in 2018 you taste the terroir more than the vintage. What was also clear form the tasting was that Olivier’s focus on texture over fruit continues. And with sublime results. These beautiful whites sit calmly and confidently in the eye of the whirlwind that is Olivier Lamy himself.
2018 St Aubin 1er Cru, Clos de Meix, Domaine Hubert Lamy
£180 per 6 bottle case in bond
Pure, clean, ripe citrus and nectarine fruit. The supple-textured mid-palate is then brought back together on a finish of poise and precision. Lovely, mouth-watering length and the moreish nature of Meix. Drink 2021-2026
2018 St Aubin 1er Cru, Clos de la Chatenière, Domaine Hubert Lamy
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
From this south-facing site on hard limestone, Olivier crafts a St Aubin that marries the taut, clean, white flower, mineral and citrus notes of the rocky terrain with the creamy texture resulting from the southerly aspect. This is vibrant and long on the finish. Drink 2022-2028
2018 St Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly, Domaine Hubert Lamy
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
The En Remilly shows a powerful concentration of orchard fruit and yellow grapefruit on the nose. The palate continues in the same vein but has an incredible mineral, saline drive and energy. Outstanding in the vintage. Drink 2022-2028