When a Burgundian estate is on the rise, one starts to hear the name in all the right contexts. There is a buzz among those who have a chance to taste at the estate. When back vintages become available, they rapidly disappear. Christophe Perrot-Minot’s star has been on the rise since his excellent 2008s but the last two years have seen enthusiasm build to a crescendo. This enthusiasm is justified and those who have had the chance to taste with Christophe will have observed the clear progression and will appreciate that this is among the most exciting addresses in the Côte d’Or right now.
Production is small and several wines are produced in quantities of less than 50 cases. Old vines are the norm; every wine – with the exception of the Morey-Saint-Denis, Rue de Vergy and the Gevrey-Chambertin – is produced from vines of at least 45 years of age. For the wines given the moniker ‘Cuvée Ultra,’ the vines are 70 to 110 years old. What is most striking when tasting at Perrot-Minot is the overriding quality of the wines up and down the scale, from the villages Morey-Saint-Denis to the stunning Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru La Richemone to the sublime Clos de Bèze.
Christophe has a clear philosophy. Importantly it is not a dogma or method but instead a mindset. Each vineyard, each parcel, each ferment must be respected for its uniqueness and for how it presents in any particular vintage. The skill of winemaker is the ability to adapt. “The philosophy is the same, the vinification is different” he says.
These are silky, fine-tuned wines; there is a precision here as well as a density, yet never do the wines seem cumbersome or aggressive – elegance comes first. These are magnificent and beautiful wines at every level and should not be missed.
**Please Note: Pricing to be published the last week in January**
Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Perrot-Minot
A complex Bourgogne combining equal proportions of fruit from Morey St. Denis (55-year-old vines) and Chambolle-Musigny (30-year-old vines). Bright crimson in the glass, offering fine vibrancy and poise for its level. It is the attractive, soft, juicy melange of red fruits that really impresses here. There is more-ish sappy quality coupled with the sleek Perrot-Minot texture that underlines the sources of the fruit and the impressive quality.
Morey St.Denis, Rue de Vergy, Domaine Perrot-Minot
A very expressive Morey with wild hedgerow fruits, admirable purity expressed on both nose and palate. A stoney, gently earthy mineral undertone gradually builds on the palate adding drive and dimension to the ripe, juicy, succulent dark red and blue fruits on show. Sleek tannins a mounting mineral nuance signal anything other than a humble village Morey. This is a gem.
Vosne-Romanée, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Scented, lifted ripe red fruits meld with notes of Asian five spice. There is a beautiful core of ripe fruit here – all soft-skinned summer red berries. Defined and detailed, this is a very classically styled Vosne with sappy, concentrated fruit and a long, persistent finish.
Vosne-Romanée, Champs Perdrix, Domaine Perrot-Minot
The 2017 Champs Perdrix is a stand-out with terrific poise and energy. It shows lifted deep red fruits notes and hints of spice on the nose, yet already boasts fine complexity on the palate. Notes of a savoury nature, almost gravelly, flinty-nuanced tannins and a layer upon layer of juicy dark red fruits, with notes of loganberry and lightly spiced raspberry. Very stylish indeed, with a lingering pure fruit. Impressive.
Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Perrot-Minot
50% of this cuvée comes from the north of the appellation (La Justice) and 50% from the south (Les Seuvrées). The fruit here captures notes of dark cherry and small dusky berries; there is a firmer touch to the tannins and pronounced stoney mineral accent to the coolly ripe fruit. Sleek in nature, with fine persistence once more leaving the palate with an impression of deep juicy fruits and mineral traces.
Chambolle-Musigny, Domaine Perrot-Minot
40% of this village Chambolle comes from the Premier Cru vineyard of La Combe d’Orveaux, which goes some way to explaining its impressive profile. Dark raspberry fruits, with a layered, seamless depth on the palate. The sense of mineral nuances gradually builds, yet it is an overriding impression of elegance that really signals this wine’s quality. There is a hint of creaminess to the broad swathe of fruit, which finishes with a hint of sour cherry that lends a mouth-watering aspect to the finish. Beautiful.
Nuits-St. Georges, Murgers des Cras, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Perhaps the most impressive vintage for Murgers de Cras yet, this possesses a fine flowing nature and silky texture that almost belies the wine’s depth. This really flatters with a bright arc of berry fruit and a certain, almost blood orange tang. Softly expressed with some spicy notes from the stems, this is far more detailed than previous vintages, with a lingering mineral infused fruit.
Morey St.Denis 1er Cru La Riotte, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Classic wild fruits on the notes highlight this wine’s origins – rich in fruit with lifted notes of violet adding a seductive dimension. The deep juicy blue fruit really impresses greatly with its notes of spice and considerable charm. There is an unerring clarity to this wine; zesty, stoney, flinty with a saline note to the finish. And what a finish, finely grained tannins lead to a persistent vibrant finale. Knock out.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveaux Cuvée Ultra, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Offering finely ripe dark berry fruit on the nose, this Chambolle possesses a silky, almost lacy texture and a startling lightness of touch. So refined, so detailed. There is a marked floral accent to the fruit that captures notes of small, wonderfully ripe dark berries – sweet-coated such is the ripeness. There is beautifully expressive with assertive tannins underpinning and a spicy touch from stems adding to the sense of vibrancy. Long, pure and frankly as fine as a Grand Cru in all but name. Chiselled was a word that sprung to mind – this is very finely crafted.
Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru Beaumonts, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Sweetly ripe, juicy berry fruit on the nose. Discreet at first, the palate reveals a very fine depth of fruit and a tight structure; this is powerful in style, yet the tannins are finely expressed. This is a more exotically-styled Vosne-Romanée with a tremendous volume of fruit, wonderfully ripe, scented, spicy and more-ish. Mouthfilling yet poised, this is an exquisitely refined and detailed Beaumonts.
Nuits-St. Georges, 1er Cru Richemone Cuvée Ultra, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Darker, duskier fruit here, brimming with dark cherry and damson. There is an impression of creamy swirls of red cherry adding a seductive note to this layered, seamless palate. Behind the copious fruit is a firm structure, powerful tannins, finely expressed but lend a grippier feel. Spicy dark fruit is the overriding impression with hints of Asian spice. There is something of the firmness of Nuits coupled with the exotic spice of Vosne. This is a winning combination, such intensity with an almost creamy texture to the opulent fruit. Very stylish and impressive.
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Dark red fruits are revealed on the nose along with a marked creaminess, which is also reflected on the palate. There is a lightly candied note to the broad swathe of summer berry fruit on the palate. Plenty of generous, ripe, almost extravagant fruit; loganberry and raspberry to the fore with background notes of spice and a hint of sour cherry that balances and freshens the palate. Currently the mineral vein and tannic frame are veiled, such is the exuberance of the ripe fruit, but they are sure to assert in time.
Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Perrot-Minot
The nose here is markedly mineral; flinty, stoney notes overlay deep, dusky wild hedgerow fruit. There is a similar sweet coated quality to the fruit here, that boasts wonderful ripeness, but the Chapelle is by no means as exuberant as the Charmes. This has real energy with a more prominent vibrant accent and certainly more youthfully assertive tannins. Refined and elegant, this Chapelle holds plenty of promise for future development.
Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Floral, scented, blueberry and loganberry on the nose, very expressive at this stage. The palate has an impressive density and texture, deep, soft layers of seamless hedgerow fruits akin to gently macerated berry fruits. This shows a majestic poise with the wealth of fruit counterbalanced by an undertow of a stoney, mineral nature. The tannins are apparent but are so finely expressed. This is one of those Grand Cru with an effortless intensity and all in all is something of a ‘wow’ wine. Seriously impressive.
Chambertin Grand Cru Clos de Beze, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Scented dark cherry and berry fruit on the nose yet showing restraint. The first impression here is of sleekness and remarkably fine-grained tannins, with no harsh edge in view. There is a fine weave of small dark fruits, flowing, elegant with a sense of tension and a tautness to the structure. This is grippier in terms of tanning, but they are not at all obtrusive even in such a young wine. Some spicy dark fruits notes emerge with time adding complexity to the sappy red berry on show. This has a coolness about it, very long drawn, pure, poised and linear to the finish. Very fine persistence and a Grand Cru of great potential.
Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Perrot-Minot
Darker fruit expressed on the nose, with less of that floral overlay evident in the Beze. The fruit is more intense here, sweeter in its juicy ripeness, with a marked cassis-like character to its dark brooding fruit. Despite the brooding quality to the fruit, this has a certain seductive quality given the balance between the volume of fruit and the powerful mineral backbone. This is so precise, pure and fine-tuned – it is a real headturner. Sleek fruit all the way – you can’t help picturing a long, slow maceration of wonderfully ripe, soft skinned small berries. The mineral notes power through to a finish that is both vibrant and imposing. A joy to taste even at this young stage.