Marion Javillier commented that 2018 was a “traditional vintage Bourguignon” when we tasted with her in October, which she qualified by describing it as rich and balanced – there was plenty of substance but also wonderful harmony. She was also one of the first, but not last, that we met who said 2018 is not a ‘vintage solaire’. This last point was certainly confirmed in our tasting with her and elsewhere. In a traditional vintage solaire, such as 2009 or 2015, at this stage in the wines’ development, you taste the vintage rather than the vineyard, the sun rather than the soil. In 2018, one can already taste the terroir differences with great clarity and there is a real sense of energy to the wines with little sense of the warmth of the season. Javillier have produced A wonderful set of whites, from the ever-reliable Oligocène up to a highly promising Corton-Charlemagne.
2018 Bourgogne Cote d’Or, Cuvée Oligocène, Domaine Patrick Javillier
£195 per 12 bottle case in bond
For how many decades already has it been possible to say “never disappoints” about this consistently outstanding cuvée? It applies again with the 2018 vintage, which is classically expressed, showing the taut, mineral vein that sets this ‘humble’ Bourgogne Blanc apart. A fresh, ripe, orchard and citrus fruit nose leads into a palate of good energy, delicacy and persistence. Drink 2020-2024
2018 Meursault, Les Tillets, Domaine Patrick Javillier
£390 per 12 bottle case in bond
After initially appearing quite closed, notes of nectarine, greengage and yellow grapefruit emerge – cool, fresh, and focused. A white stone minerality is also evident. The higher altitude of the Tillets vineyard shows through, bringing a zingy, vibrant fruit freshness to the mineral finish. Drink 2021-2028
2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Domaine Patrick Javillier
£540 per 6 bottle case in bond
White flower, white peach, and white stone on the nose. The palate is intense and tightly-wound showing incredible mineral power, almost austere at this early stage. But the ripe white and yellow stone fruit come through with just enough juicy richness to confirm the balance of fruit concentration and mineral energy that should see this take on great complexity with bottle age. Drink 2023-2033