Thibaut Morey and his father Michel have transformed Domaine Morey Coffinet in a few short years. The Domaine is not an old one in itself but was created in the late 1970s by the union of Michel Morey and Fabienne Coffinet, the daughter herself of Cecile Pillot – so a rollcall of Chassagne icons are at its core. And it remains decidedly Chassagne to this day, with all of its Domaine holdings lying within the Chassagne border, the one exception being its Puligny Pucelles. They are certified organic since 2018 and have been following biodynamic principles for four years, which, as we have commented frequently elsewhere, demonstrates a clear commitment to the long-term health and sustainability of the vineyard and a mindset focused on integrity and respect. Certainly our tasting with Thibault introduced us to a thoughtful, respectful, calm winemaker, one who talks knowledgeably and insightfully about not just his own holdings but about Burgundy as a whole. Not so much revolution but evolution here, and wines of beautiful harmony and transparency.
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, En Caillerets, Domaine Morey-Coffinet
£290 per 6 bottle case in bond
Vines planted between 1985 and 1990. Aging is in a mixture of 228 litre and 350 litre barrels.
The nose here is pure, fresh, elegant. Delicate floral notes and fresh citrus fruit. The wine treads lightly across the palate with a taut mineral quality and a great sense of energy and precision, almost weightless and so pure. Drink 2021-2028
2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru, Romanée, Domaine Morey-Coffinet
£290 per 6 bottle case in bond
Vines planted in 1957. Aging in a mixture of 228 litre and 350 litre barrels.
The older vine quality shows itself here in a wine of mouth-wateringly juicy orchard fruit. A lovely core of fruit is supported by a gentle mineral tension and great length with a yellow grapefruit vibrancy at the end. A fine balance is achieved between weight and freshness. Drink 2021-2028
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Combettes, Maison Morey-Coffinet
£375 per 6 bottle case in bond
The nose here shows richness of fruit but with bright citrus fruit and nectarine. This carries through to the palate which then tightens with mineral tension leading to a taut finish. Good length of ripe citrus fruit, elegantly expressed and focused. Drink 2021-2028
2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Pucelles, Domaine Morey-Coffinet
£375 per 6 bottle case in bond
Classic white flower and struck match notes on the nose here. The palate opens with pristine lime citrus fruit. There is a saline touch too. Great length on the palate with fine mineral purity and a fresh, vibrant acidity. This shows all the terroir hallmarks of a well-crafted Pucelles from its outstanding location next to Batard-Montrachet. Drink 2022-2030
2018 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Morey-Coffinet
£1,200 per 6 bottle case in bond
From vines entirely on the Chassagne side, the 2018 Batard is being aged in 400 litre and 228 litre barrels. Thibault’s Batard captures all the fruit opulence and richness of Batard, while harnessing a tremendous tension at the core. The pure fruit sings out and there is a profound sense of energy. The larger barrels are used because of a belief that freshness and precision will be maintained and that certainly appears to have been achieved here, as is the case at an increasing number of leading addresses in the Cote de Beaune. Drink 2023-2033