Sébastien Cathiard continues to drive forward this outstanding estate, already so sought out since his father’s transformative tenure over so many years. The precision that we have seen emerge in more recent years continues to increase and the purity and clarity of vineyard expression now assert themselves with increasing transparency through the famous velvet textures that still contribute to the luxurious appeal. This is a wonderful set of 2017s from the domaine’s four hectares in Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St Georges.
The Cathiard estate is roughly four hectares in size, with excellent parcels of Villages and Premier Crus in Vosne-Romanée as well as Nuits-Saint Georges. The domaine boasts almost a full hectare of vines in Aux Malconsorts which is considered to be of Grand Cru quality by many commentators. It is the inherent quality of fruit that shines through in the wines of this estate, something that can be attributed to very careful sorting and minimal intervention in the cellar. Tasting these wines is always a joy; they are invariably expressive from barrel yet they also have the backbone and power to age gracefully over time.
2017 Coteaux Bourguignons, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£95 per 6 bottle case in bond
This supple, bright-fruited 2017 might possess modest complexity, but it offers a more-ish, juicy red fruit with a touch more generosity than you might expect for a wine of this level. That hallmark Cathiard textural impression is evident too, and as an earlier vintage tasted blind vouched, it can punch above its weight. Drink 2020-2025
2017 Bourgogne Rouge, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£140 per 6 bottle case in bond
Bright fruit on the nose with a perfumed, almost incense-like character. The palate opens with a sappy berry fruit with hints of spice. This shows as well as you would expect; a well-crafted Bourgogne, high on appeal and suited to early consumption. Drink 2020-2025
2017 Vosne-Romanée, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£320 per 6 bottle case in bond
The village Vosne chez Cathiard seldom disappoints; what impresses most with this 2017 is the taut nature to the fruit. There is a generous ripe berry quality and plenty of substance for a village. The tannins are finely expressed and lead to an impressive, persistent finish. 2022-2027
2017 Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de l’Orme, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£340 per 6 bottle case in bond
Juicy berry fruit on the nose, with subtle hints of a flinty mineral nature. This is remarkably sleek on the palate revealing fine ripeness and lively vibrant accent. There is a real sense of energy here in this impressive Clos de l’Orme with its layered, appealing fruit. Drink 2024-2030
2017 Nuits St.Georges Thorey, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£550 per 6 bottle case in bond
Often underrated, the Thorey shows blueberry and red berry fruit on the nose, with a hint of exotic spice. Generous, mouth-filling with a fine yet firm backbone. There is fine substance on show here, with layers of plush, cushioned fruit. This vineyard on the Vosne side of the appellation is deserving of far more attention. Very impressive. Drink 2024-2030
2017 Nuits St.Georges, Murgers, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£630 per 6 bottle case in bond
In contrast to the Thorey, this shows more stoney, flinty nuances on the nose, and a wilder quality to its fruit. Generous once again, with fine intensity, sweetly ripe blueberry and loganberry envelop the palate, veiling the assertive mineral vein behind. The tannins assert to the finish in this remarkably pure Murgers. Drink 2025-2032
2017 Vosne-Romanée, Reignots, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£820 per 6 bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Scented dark raspberry on the nose, the palate is silky, fine-tuned and seamless. The cherry red fruits are so attractive here – in fact this possesses plenty of charm, but also a linear mouth feel with plenty of energy. Yes, there is a seductive, almost exotic touch to this Reignots, but it does not lack direction. Very fine and persistent – a joy to taste even at this young stage. Drink 2025-2032
2017 Vosne-Romanée, Orveaux, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£820 per 6 bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Similar on the nose to the Reignots, yet the palate here seems more open and the fruit more abundant. This is a generous, dark fruited Vosne with much more evident and assertive tannins. Fleshy dark fruits fill out the structure here, though there is a sense that it will need time to knit. The potential on show here is considerable. Very long and powerful. Drink 2025-2035
2017 Vosne-Romanée, Suchots, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£1050 per 6 bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
Such an expressive set of aromatics, juicy ripe berry fruit and hints of Asian spice as well as a floral overlay. The density of the fruit here impresses greatly, layered dark brooding fruits and red fruits meld on the palate. The mineral undertow is well-masked by the sheer stature of the fruit; powerful, intense and yet finely detailed. This shows a fine complexity already – as imposing as a Grand Cru. Give this sufficient time in bottle and it is sure to reward in spades. Outstanding. Drink 2025-2035
2017 Vosne-Romanée, Malconsorts, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£1550 per 6 bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
The Malconsorts reveals notes of crumbling rock and a distinct stoniness that add complexity to the ripe, juicy blueberry and loganberry fruits. There is also a scented, lifted quality that continues to influence the palate. This shows terrific intensity and focus – the tannins are finely expressed and underpin admirably. Currently the fruit is partially held in check, but you can sense such a deep core. The energetic, linear, mineral-driven characters that make this wine so compelling vintage in, vintage out carry it through to a remarkably persistent finish, leaving you with the impression of glossy fruit. Drink 2025-2035
2017 Romanée St.Vivant, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard
£1800 per 3 bottle case in bond - SOLD OUT
The aromatics reveal a much more scented, floral nature here with juicy dark red fruits behind. Finely detailed, very well-defined, this RSV does not demonstrate the volume of perhaps the Malconsorts, instead it reveals a racy, linear quality where its ripe fruit is underscored by a bright, minerally acidity. This is not lacking in drive; the intensity builds, but this is a Grand Cru built on tight lines – powerful and long, notes of spice emerge to the finish that refuses to fade. Impressive potential here. Drink 2028-2040