As with last year, we were struck by the consistency across the remarkable range of Jadot in the 2015 vintage. There are few if any Burgundian houses that have this reach, benefitting from impressive holdings across the region and masterful winemaking that manages the contrasts and nuances here with aplomb.
The original estate began in the 1820s when its namesake, Louis Jadot, purchased the vineyard of Beaune Clos des Ursules (still a core part of their consequential range today). The Jadot family sold the business in 1985 to their US importer who, along with President Pierre-Henri Gagey, have overseen further upwards shift in both quality and fortunes. Hardly coincidentally, the last twenty years have also seen a return to traditional farming, rejecting the use of chemicals in the vineyards, and gentler extraction and fermentation techniques in the cellars, now under the stewardship of winemaker Frédéric Barnier.
Overall, over 200 different wines are produced, from humble Mâconnais to the Grand Crus Clos Saint-Denis and Musigny. Just as striking is the amount of vineyard land that they own and/or control, over 200 hectares – something that is impressive for any region, but noticeably so where the average vineyard holding is approximately 2.5 hectares.
While the regional and villages wines can offer excellent value, it is with the Premier and Grand Crus that the interest really lies. This year, we have seven wines from Jadot’s own vineyards, split between Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot (the original holdings from when Louis Jadot first established the company) and Domaine Louis Jadot. The remaining wines were made from grapes grown on vineyards belonging to families with whom Jadot has had long-term partnerships (as well as exclusive access), indeed they have farmed the vineyards of Domaine Gagey and Domaine Duc de Magenta for several decades.
Duc de Magenta, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle 2015
The small vineyard of Clos de la Chapelle is based within Morgeot’s limestone and clay soils in the south of Chassagne-Montrachet. Its slope faces southeast, providing a welcome compromise between the richer style of wines facing further south and the leaner style of easterly-facing vineyards. The 2015 is slightly fuller than the 2014, with expressive citrus aromas and broad lemon, passionfruit and tangerine notes on the palate. An intense, smooth-textured wine whose ample fruit and structure will demand a couple of years of ageing but would keep for several more. Drink 2018-2023
£240 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Referts 2015
Impressive for both power and structure in 2015 is Jadot’s Premier Cru Les Referts. The vineyard lies north of Puligny-Montrachet, abutting Meursault Premier Cru Les Charmes. Just around five hectares in size, this vineyard tends to produce generous, open fruit in its wines compared to the sometimes leaner styles of Puligny. The 2015 is no exception, with exuberant lemon and grapefruit aromas on the nose and an expansive palate with passionfruit, citrus zest alongside mellow honeyed notes and spice from ageing in fine French oak barrels. The breadth and depth of fruit here will age eight years with ease, but unfurl and reveal its character much earlier. Drink 2017-2024
£270 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Louis Jadot, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2015*
Bâtard-Montrachet is the largest of the five Grands Crus that comprise the finest white wines of Burgundy. It lies just below Le Montrachet and – if comparisons are to be made – Bâtard makes fuller wines than its neighbour, perhaps slightly less genteel but with arguably more richness and power showing at an earlier stage. The 2015 has a classic citrus fruit core and poise, with attractive floral aromas in youth. Underneath, however, is broader palate feel than many of the Jadot white wines, with rich honeysuckle, almond and spice complexity. Certainly not a wine that is shy in character, it will impress in its early as well as later stages. Drink 2019-2028
£1100 per six bottles in bond
Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot, Beaune Premier Cru Clos des Ursules 2015
We are continually struck by Clos des Ursules when comparing its quality to many other higher-priced great red Burgundies. This Premier Cru lies close to Pommard and shares the longevity of some of the more substantial Pommard Crus. It is the original vineyard (lying within the larger ‘Vignes Franches’ Cru) that the Jadot family farmed from 1826. It is also a monopole, which means that only Jadot own, farm and make the wines from this area. The 2015 has dark fruit and a powerful, rich, spice-laden core with compact tannin and an impressively firm frame. Notable concentration of cassis and cherry fruit are followed by a touch of cinnamon, clove and forest fruits on the finish. A supple, complete wine with pronounced structure and intensity. Drink 2019 - 2030.
£240 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Louis Jadot, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2015*
Jadot is the second largest owner of the Grand Cru vineyard of Clos Vougeot with just over two hectares (out of a total of 50 hectares) in their estate. Enclosed by stone walls (hence the name ‘Clos’) it is sandwiched between Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée. It is always difficult to make generalisations about Burgundy, but this Grand Cru is even harder to pinpoint due to the multitude of terroirs within its walls. Jadot own vines that run midway down the slope, the majority of which are over 35 years old. The domaine’s 2015 displays the benchmark fine floral fragrance and bright fruit of their style, with slightly darker berry aromas and graphite notes that add further intrigue and complexity. A remarkably fresh style given the warm conditions of the year, with firm tannin that will aid longevity and a rounded, fruit-charged finish. Drink 2018 - 2032.
£495 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Louis Jadot, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2015*
A particular success in this vintage is Grand Cru Chapelle-Chambertin. It is a small vineyard for a Grand Cru from this area; with 5.49 hectares it is one third the size of Chambertin Clos de Bèze. It lies directly underneath the latter but on slightly poorer soils, giving a focussed, poised character to the wine, which aids the freshness and tenacity this year. Allied to which there is a supple, dense, powerful red fruit core that grabs the attention from the start. The 2015 is a more dashing, lavish example of Chapelle-Chambertin, without compromising any of the precise, pure red fruits and floral fragrance that defines it. Drink 2020 - 2034.
£770 per six bottles in bond
Louis Jadot, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2015
A ‘negoce’ wine, where Jadot purchased the fruit from their long-term vineyard partners, it nonetheless enjoys all the attention and care bestowed by Frédéric Barnier on the domaine holdings. The vineyard lies in the north of Morey-Saint-Denis and, at 17 hectares in size, is the largest of the four Grands Crus un the area. This means that generalisations are difficult. What is noticeable with Jadot’s 2015 is the very dark colour and spice that does seem to lend itself to wines from this area. Added to this is a concentrated mid-palate and compact feel, balanced by firm, ripe but tightly-woven tannin. Drink 2019 - 2033.
£800 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Gagey, Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2015*
This vineyard is one of the four Grand Crus from the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. There are approximately 6.5 hectares of vines that lie at the heart of the appellation, close to the village itself. The Domaine Gagey 2015 meshes blackberry, black cherry and cassis with redder fruits, such as strawberry and raspberry. Underneath this abundance of fruit is a firm, almost unyielding structure which will demand considerable time before opening. At this early stage, this is not the most forward nor opulent of the 2015s that we tasted with Domaine Jadot, but with time the taut tannins and generous flavour of berries and spice will ensure this is one of the very best of their range. Drink 2021 - 2040
£1260 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Louis Jadot, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2015*
Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is a relatively large Grand Cru which is predominantly within the boundaries of the Chambolle-Musigny appellation, with a small but not inconsequential 1.5 hectares nestled on the other side of the border within Morey Saint-Denis. Jadot have one quarter of a hectare from where Frédéderic Barnier makes wines that he describes as robust and powerful but also refined. The 2015 is dark in colour and in fruit, with a commanding core of flavour on the mid-palate. Unapproachable at this young stage, the wine has intense cassis and cherry fruit that will gain impressive complexity. The fruit is ably supported by a gentle but constant thread of acidity and framed by firm tannins that need time to knit with the rest of the wine, as expected of wines of this high standing. Drink 2022 to 2041
£650 per three bottles in bond
Domaine Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2015*
The Chambertin Clos de Bèze continues to be the most consistently impressive Grand Cru across several vintages that we have tasted from Domaine Louis Jadot. The fifteen-hectare vineyard lies in the middle of the Grand Crus of Chambertin and Mazis-Chambertin, facing east. The 2015 has the finesse of structure and red fruit alongside richer, more extravagant, darker fruits of this particular vintage. An intense, almost mineral vein runs through the wine, refreshing the palate continually while not detracting from the sumptuous berry character nor fine-grained tannin that adds to the elegant feel. Drink 2025 - 2043.
£780 per three bottles in bond