A visit to Domaine Lécheneaut is always insightful; brothers Vincent and Philippe Lécheneaut are renowned for their knowledge and skill in managing their vineyards. In a year such as 2015, this was key. It was a warm, dry year overall, which benefitted some of the cooler slopes such as the Hautes-Côtes, with the challenge in the warmer areas being to pick before the grapes lost acidity. They feel the wines easily match those of 2005 or 2009.
The domaine itself is situated in Nuits-Saint-Georges, but extends over 10 hectares of vines across 18 different appellations with some considerable holdings in Premier Cru vineyards, including Les Pruliers and Les Damodes. Purchased in the 1960s, Fernand Lécheneaut worked for a négociant house and sold fruit from his own three hectares. Over the years, the family added to their holdings and Fernand’s sons, Vincent and Philippe, then rset themselves up as a fully-fledged domaine in the 1980s. Given glowing reviews, significant holdings and evident winemaking talent, it is surprising that this domaine has remained off the radar for so long. The brothers have accomplished much in the last 30 years and are subsequently very highly-regarded by fellow growers. It was, in fact, a personal recommendation from one such grower that led to our initial interest. Their philosophy includes organic and biodynamic principles which often underlines the qualities of an attentive grower. The quality of the fruit is key to their success and each vintage we have assessed has demonstrated stunning purity. These are deceptively long-lived wines, although the structure is underlying and it is the fruit expression that comes to the fore. High class Burgundy, indeed.
Domaine Lécheneaut, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2015
The family’s Bourgogne is taken from their single hectare of vines situated on well-exposed stony soils of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits at up to 400 metres in altitude. This elevation is considerably cooler and harvest takes place a full 15 days later than on the lower slopes. This tends to give an elegant wine with ‘tension’ as described by Vincent, which is a boon during a warm growing season such as in 2015. The wine is typically medium-bodied and is a slightly earlier-drinking introduction to their range with its attractive, supple cherry and raspberry fruit character, but there is an extra dimension in terms of intensity of flavour and spice this year. The tannins are rounded and have an agile feel to them, with gentle verve in the background, which shapes the lasting finish. An excellent preface to the fine but relatively humbly-priced wines of Domaine Lecheneaut. Drink 2017-2020.
£170 per twelve bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Morey-Saint-Denis, 2015
The Domaine has a particularly good Morey-Saint-Denis, much of which comes from vines that lie next to the famed Grand Cru of Clos des Lambrays. The limestone soils give freshness while the clay component provides the richness of fruit and the assertive tannic frame. For now, the aromas are subtle, with some cassis and herb on show; the palate is full with firm tannins and a concentrated fruit core, both of which will integrate with time, as will the toast and mocha notes of ageing partially in new French oak barrels. There is plenty of Morey-Saint-Denis spice here too and it has all the freshness and length of great examples from the area. Drink 2019-2027
£160 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Gevrey-Chambertin 2015
From the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, the Lécheneaut family have approximately half a hectare of Gevrey-Chambertin villages, where the vines are approximately fifty years of age. Their holding is spread across two parcels of vines to the north and south of the appellation. Bearing in mind its villages status, this is always a powerful wine and the 2015 is a particularly rich example, with an abundance of red fruits, but with accompanying hints of blackberry, cassis and cherry. It is one of the most versatile wines of the Lécheneaut range, a wine for relatively youthful drinking but that will develop fascinating complexity with cellaring. Drink 2018-2027
£175 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Les Chouillets, Vieilles Vignes 2015
Les Chouillets 2015 is a particularly fine example given its freshness and bright fruit character, no doubt attributed to the age of vines (60 years). Older vines are generally acknowledged to manage warmer vintages well given the greater soil depths that their roots achieve, and therefore the greater access to precious water reserves. Added to this is Les Chouillets’ advantageous location to the north of Nuits-Saint-Georges, close to the border with Vosne-Romanée. This is an outstanding buy with both intensity, structure and amplitude of fruit that is reminiscent of its northerly neighbour. There are hedgerow aromas and attractive cherry notes, with a vivid, flowing palate and sensation of fruit sweetness without heaviness that suggests this will drink well in a year or so. Yet there is plenty of tannin behind, with more savoury nuances of spice, earth, game and herb alongside the primary fruit that will cellar outstandingly. Drink 2020-2027
£180 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru 2015
This wine stole the show on our recent tasting of 2015s, with finesse, fragrance and structure. This is in part on account of their small holdings here; the Lécheneaut family blend two very good parcels of Premier Cru together, ‘Les Borniques’ and ‘Les Plantes’, to make their superb Chambolle-Musigny. ‘Les Borniques’ is a continuation of Musigny Grand Cru and, as might be expected, the wine always displays appropriately dark colour and powerful cherry fruit characters. The tannins are sleek and fine, thereby allowing the wine to age exceptionally well, too. The 2015 is particularly vibrant, with black cherry and a fragrance that speaks of its origin. Tannins are typically fine, which will support the fruit well in the mid to long term. Drink 2019-2030
£290 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Les Damodes 2015
The 8.5-hectare Premier Cru Les Damodes sits right on the border with Vosne-Romanée and is often associated with the character traits of Vosne, namely finesse, spicy aromatics, as well as richness of red and black fruits. The 2015 was, however, somewhat of a surprise. There is a freshness throughout and a distinct character of wild herbs and spice, rather than the fruitier notes of many other wines from this vintage. As such, it appears as a more graceful wine, easier to drink in youth and without the almost heady combination of warmth and full fruit that the 2015s often achieve. A particularly fine, elegant Damodes that has plenty of flavour but a lightness in its step this year. Drink 2019-2028
£290 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Nuits-Saint-Georges, 1er Cru, Les Pruliers 2015
The Premier Cru vineyard of Les Pruliers lies towards the southern-most part of Nuits-Saint-Georges and is perhaps more recognisably Nuits, with its very dense tannin and pronounced fruit intensity. The 2015 has mulberry, cherry, wood smoke, plum and damson complexity on the nose, with a powerful, ripe palate. Tannins are plentiful; the majority ageing takes place in new oak barrels which means that considerable time will be needed to integrate fruit, oak and structural components. Drink 2021-2030
£290 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Lécheneaut, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2015*
We have a small allocation of the superb Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from the Lécheneaut brothers’ modest holding here. After the very fine but arguably earlier drinking 2014, the 2015 is a return to the weightier, more potent style that they can achieve, with intense fruit, firm tannin and acidity. There is a beautifully pure, blackberry aroma on the bouquet, with a supple palate that belies the force and fruit-weight behind it. This is at first a charming and relatively open wine, but on second taste a powerful one that will keep pace with any of its perhaps more better-known peers. Drink 2022-2035.
£795 per six bottles in bond