One of the great names in Burgundy; today, the style of the wines is now all down to the work of Sébastien Cathiard, having taken over the reins from his father, Sylvain. The quality is always evident from barrel at this address, but the 2015s were something else. It is a rare pleasure to find wines that are decadent, luxurious and intensely pleasurable, yet also transparently represent their respective vineyard sites. The Cathiard 2015s are pristine, precise and perfectly delineated.
The Cathiard estate is roughly four hectares in size, with excellent parcels of villages and Premier Crus in Vosne-Romanée as well as Nuits-Saints-Georges. The domaine boasts almost a full hectare of vines in Aux Malconsorts which is considered to be of Grand Cru quality by many commentators. It is the inherent quality of fruit that shines through in the wines of this estate, which can be attributed to very careful sorting and minimal intervention in the cellar. Tasting these wines is always a joy; they are invariably expressive from barrel yet they also have the backbone and power to age gracefully over time.
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Bourgogne Rouge 2015*
This Bourgogne Rouge might be humble in name, but it is a far cry from the average Bourgogne. Sébastien looks to harness the purity and immediate appeal of Pinot Noir. This is a lovely, silky style of Pinot with pure dark fruit highlighted by hints of red berry. The 2015 is generous and delicious yet fresh with a beautiful acidity and a touch of lifted spice. Perfectly composed and balanced, this is a stunning Bourgogne which will drink well young but will certainly reward a couple of years in bottle, too. Drink 2017-2020
£130 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 2015*
Sébastien’s Vosne-Romanée is a wine that punches well above its weight. Taken from four different parcels of vines, it displays a sensation of seamlessness and harmony, with flowing, succulent dark red fruits fine tannins, and fresh acidity that lends lift and energy to the palate. The 2015 is deliciously rich with delicate tannins and stunningly pure fruit. The decadence is perfectly tempered by a line of freshness on the finish. Drink 2018-2023
£270 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Chambolle-Musigny 'Le Clos de L'Orme' 2015*
Sébastien has nearly 0.5 hectares of ‘Le Clos de l’Orme’, a small single vineyard that, while classified as ‘Villages’, often delivers the quality level expected of a Premier Cru. Invariably a little shy when tasted from barrel, the 2015 was anything but; this is a stunningly pretty and pure example with great clarity and a vivid freshness to its red fruits. Cool, fresh and lively. One of the best young Clos de L’Orme’s we have tasted. 2018-2023
£300 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Thorey 2015*
With close to half a hectare of vines, Sébastien produces a small quantity of Aux Thorey, a Nuits-Saint-Georges produced from notably gravelly soils. Generally, Sébastien notes that Aux Thorey takes time to show its full colours, however, the 2015 was beautiful from barrel. This is a Thorey which is full of rich, brambly fruit with a smooth richness to the palate. The 2015 is seamless with easy power and a freshness that lifts but does not challenge the delicious fruit. Again, probably one of the most exciting young Thorey’s we have tasted. Drink 2017-2023
£510 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers 2015*
Similar in size to Aux Thorey at just under five hectares (though Sébastien has a mere 0.48 hectares within this vineyard), this Premier Cru also sits in the north of the appellation, closer to Vosne-Romanée. Its proximity to the Grand Cru vineyards of Vosne may account for the particularly impressive depth of fruit and richness of Aux Murgers. Sébastien himself describes this wine as more ‘broad-shouldered’ than Aux Thorey. The 2015 Murgers is certainly substantial and deep with great intensity on the mid-palate. This is richer than the Thorey with substantial but beautifully sleek tannins which frame a concentrated core of dark fruit. Less expressive than the Thorey today, but no less impressive in the long term. Drink 2018-2025
£540 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots 2015*
Domaine Cathiard owns just a tiny parcel (0.24 hectares) of this vineyard which represents some of the younger vines among their holdings. The propitious location of Aux Reignots ensures, however, that this example delivers a sophisticated style. Sitting just above La Romanée Grand Cru, it is perhaps unsurprising that the wine demands time in the cellar for the tannins to soften. It tends to be less imposing, a distinctly elegant style with all the tenacity and fruit length that might be expected of a wine from this area. The 2015 Reignots positively soars from the glass with beautiful and expansive aromatics. This is akin to the essence of Vosne-Romanée, delicate and nuanced yet richly textured, suave and silky. At once voluminous and airy. Outstanding. Drink 2019-2027
£590 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux 2015*
Sébastien has almost a third of a hectare of old vines (70 years of age) in this sought-after Premier Cru, which lies above Echézeaux Grand Cru. Although it is a relatively cool site, En Orveaux always shows well in its youth. The En Orveaux 2015 is even prettier and airier than the Reignots, if a little less dense. Flowing, elegant and composed, this magnificently balanced effort has thrilling complexity but also an easy charm. A wonderfully compelling, complete and enjoyable En Orveaux. Drink 2018-2026
£590 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 2015*
With just 0.16 hectares of vines, Sébastien only produces three barrels from his holding in Les Suchots. The clay soils of this vineyard give underlying power and richness to the wine. In the cellar, Sébastien only employs new oak barrels for the élèvage of this wine, which imparts an intriguing clove and spice scent. In 2015, the Suchots has a deep core of fruit with ample concentration and near perfect, svelte tannins. Powerful and opulent yet deeply mineral, this is a benchmark Les Suchots offering huge cellar potential. Spectacular. 2019-2027
£700 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts 2015*
Frequently described as the equal of Grand Cru, Aux Malconsorts shows the power and finesse that we have come to expect from this remarkably well-situated vineyard that lies adjacent to La Tâche. The 2015 is structured and powerful with firm tannins framing and shaping the pure fruit. Bright acidity lifts the explosively floral aromatics. Despite the considerable volume, depth and complexity, the Malconsorts 2015 is magnificently elegant. This is a wine of considerable finesse which glides across the palate. Drink 2019-2030
£1030 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Romanée Saint-Vivant Grand Cru 2015*
A tiny amount of wine is made from the 0.17 hectares that Domaine Cathiard own in the Grand Cru of Romanée Saint-Vivant. The pinnacle of the domaine’s vineyards, it has an extra dimension of fruit weight and complexity, with powerful tannins and glorious definition. Often the Romanée Saint Vivant is difficult to taste from barrel as it is tightly coiled. However, the 2015 showed well. Towering aromatics of stunning complexity soared from the glass. The palate is compact with a core of pure concentrated fruit. Every aspect of this is precise and perfectly expressed: sublime tannins, perfectly judged acidity, fruit that is completely ripe, expressive yet fresh. This is always a benchmark for Romanée Saint-Vivant, evoking the sensual nature of this great vineyard. Truly memorable. Drink 2021-2032
£1300 per three bottles in bond