Olivier Lamy’s talent is well established but, if one needed more proof, the quality of the 2015s emphatically makes the case. He explained to us that he has learned lessons of other recent warm and dry vintages like 2003, 2005 and 2009 and applied them to the 2015s. For example, he decided not to use any new oak to avoid smothering the fruit. Olivier is a winemaker that inspires huge confidence; he adapts to the vintage and understands the essence and condition of the vineyard. Like many other smart winemakers, he picked his whites early, in the first week of September, to preserve freshness.
Vineyards have been in the family since the 17th century. Olivier joined his father Hubert formally at the domaine in 1995 but had been firmly in command for some years before and he now controls 17 hectares of vineyard over 18 appellations. His wines are often the finest of the entire Saint Aubin appellation and are principally from Premier Cru vineyards. Olivier is a thoughtful, intelligent winemaker who has driven the quality of his white wines to very high levels indeed. Although 75 per cent of production is Chardonnay, the quality of red wines has risen dramatically since Olivier’s arrival. One well known and respected commentator has suggested that Olivier Lamy is the most talented young winemaker in Burgundy.
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin 1er Cru, Clos du Meix 2015
Olivier has just 0.70 hectares of Premier Cru Clos du Meix which were planted in 1985. It is a warm, sheltered Premier Cru vineyard from which he makes wines that are more accessible in youth than his other cuvées, yet still uphold the domaine’s elegant style. The 2015 Clos du Meix has an understated beauty. Wonderfully harmonious and composed, the freshness buffers and lifts the sweet fruit without any sense of edginess. There is not a hair out of place in this Clos du Meix. Drink 2016-2020
£130 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin 1er Cru, Clos de la Chatenière 2015
Olivier has 1.25 hectares from this small Premier Cru vineyard of 8.5 hectares, which was planted by his father in 1965. This is notoriously a difficult parcel to harvest due to the precipitous nature of the slopes here, but the reward is a wine that is more powerful than the Clos du Meix and one that demands another year or two of ageing. The Clos de la Chatenière 2015 is very energetic with a saltier, tangy punch and core of pure lemon surrounded by pith and rind. It is a very driven example with plenty of mineral characters and also has the generosity of fruit and lush character of the vintage. Olivier has done a magnificent job with this wine. Drink 2017-2021
£170 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly 2015
With an enviable reputation (as befits a vineyard that lies just next to Grand Crus Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet), En Remilly is also a large vineyard (30 hectares) of which Olivier owns a not insubstantial two hectares, planted in 1989. Here, at the top of the vineyard slope, poor soils are rendered even more challenging to work by strong winds. Yet these same winds help to build concentration of fruit and keep the crop healthy. As is typical, the 2015 En Remilly has the most power and density of this range of St. Aubin. This possesses a line of minerality which is beautifully judged to lift the fruit without creating any hard edges. The best examples of En Remilly are Puligny-like and this 2015 certainly evokes that comparison with soaring aromatics of elderflower and yellow peach over smoky, stony undertones. A cerebral beauty. Drink 2017-2023
£170 per six bottles in bond