It may be starting to sound like a stuck record, but Olivier Lamy is one of the most talented winemakers in the whole of Burgundy. While this is widely acknowledged, his 2016s make it worth repeating. Once again, he has used no new oak, he expands his use of larger barrels and uses no sulphur for the first twelve months of the wines’ life. Olivier is a winemaker that inspires huge confidence; he adapts to the vintage and has a profound understanding of the essence and condition of each vineyard.
Vineyards have been in the family since the 17th century. Olivier joined his father Hubert formally at the domaine in 1995 but had been firmly in command for some years before and he now controls 17 hectares of vineyard over 18 appellations. His wines are often the finest of the entire Saint Aubin appellation and are principally from Premier Cru vineyards with at least 75% being white. Olivier is a thoughtful, intelligent winemaker who has driven the quality of his white wines to very high levels indeed.
Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin 1er Cru, Clos du Meix 2016
As always, there is a gentle amplitude to the Clos de Meix, with apple notes vying with peach. The palate is supple yet possessed of a lovely citrus zip. This is clean-cut and juicy, showing good purity and freshness. Good from bottling but with vibrancy to age three to five years or more. Drink 2019-2023
£150 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin 1er Cru, Clos de la Chatenière 2016
Grilled citrus and baked nectarine notes with a subtle creamy touch express themselves on the nose here. The palate is clean and fresh with a juicy, grilled grapefruit length typical of this vineyard. A subtle minerality emerges on the finish. This is a beautiful mouth-watering wine of freshness and some finesse. Drink 2019-2025
£190 per six bottle case in bond
Domaine Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly 2016
The En Remilly really highlights Olivier Lamy’s gradual shift of focus over the years to expressing texture more than fruit. While this shows pure, focused yellow fruit notes on the nose, with yellow plum succulence and juicy grapefruit breadth on the mid-palate, it is for its layered, textural, mineral finish that this wine stands out. A fabulous En Remilly. Drink 2019-2027
£190 per six bottle case in bond