My inbox is filling up with offers of Cabernet-based wines from an unremarkable vintage at unrealistic prices. Yours might be too. Maybe it is me, but when the compulsion to purchase is simply that less made was in a particular vintage, I remain nonplussed.
With this backdrop in mind, I thought I would sooner send you an offer of a sublime Cabernet Sauvignon from a great vintage at a price that offers real value. And I have no idea whether their production was up or down on the preceding year as it is irrelevant. This is a great Cabernet Sauvignon that will reward time in the cellar – yet even a bottle broached at an early stage will easily signal its qualities.
Moss Wood is, to me, the greatest estate for Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia – others may disagree, but they would most likely have it in the top four or five examples. Established in 1969, Moss Wood is located in Western Australia in the Margaret River. Current proprietors, Clare and Keith Mugford have been involved in the winemaking and viticulture of the estate since 1984 and 1979 respectively. Cabernet Sauvignon has been the main focus since the estate’s inception and, rather than adopt some European role model for their wine, they are intent on expressing what is individual to their vineyards in the Wilyabrup region, and they are keenly focused on pushing quality ever higher. The maritime climate is key to the quality of the Margaret River and has led to this region, just 120 kilometres by 27, being recognised for the quality of Cabernet-based wines.
The centrepiece for the estate is their old vine Cabernet Sauvignon, which has an illustrious rollcall of great vintages, and I am really pleased to be able to offer the hugely impressive 2019 here. 2019 was a cool vintage for the region, one to rank alongside successful cool vintages such as 1982, 1990, 1999 and 2017. I remember being lucky enough to taste the 1999, which made me reassess my views of Margaret River Cabernet in quick fashion. The Mugfords have high hopes for the 2019, as they harvested riper Cabernet in this vintage than in, say, 2017. The year brought its challenges but the quality in the glass stands out for its purity and precision. See my full note below.
2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Moss Wood
£275 per 6 bottle case in bond