2021 Paixar, Bodegas Luna Beberide
A shining gem of wine from Bierzo in north-west Spain
£155 per 6 bottle case in bond

Request To Buy

This is some wine – I can’t say it any clearer than that. I was hugely impressed and what’s more it offers exceptional value. You really should take note of this – the 2021 Paixar, Bodegas Luna Beberide offered here at £155 per 6 bottle case in bond.
 
I have mentioned before that it is my intention to explore a wider range of Spanish wines as I am fascinated by sense of change that continues to ripple across many regions. This isn’t new – it has been going on for several years now and perhaps I need to catch up to speed, but I am finding more and more styles that impress; wines where the purity of fruit is coming to the fore as well as the terroir expression, unhampered by any use of oak and where extraction is more measured than in a bygone age, meaning the tannins are gently expressed. Invariably, I am finding these character traits and qualities in wines from vineyards that lie at altitude.
 
Bierzo is certainly a region I need to explore more…This region, to the northwest of the province of Léon, lies to the north of Portugal – it is a halfway point between Castilla and Galicia. It is a mountainous region that consists of many small valleys in Alto Bierzo and a rather flatter plain in Bajo Bierzo. Unsurprisingly, it is old vines invariably planted on schistous soils on the hillside vineyards that deliver the most interesting, highest quality wines. The region boasts many established vineyards with old vines – with Mencia being the dominant variety, known as Jaen in Portugal. For a long time, Mencia was believed to be an old clone of Cabernet Franc, but this has been dispelled by DNA analysis. It is true to say that the variety expresses a similar array of characters, juicy berry fruit, hints of spice, sometimes a little herbal, leafiness too. It carries its weight well on account of the brightness of the acidity that is inherent in the variety, but it is a distinct variety.
 
This example is simply stunning – it comes from the Dragonte zone of Corullon. It is 100% Mencia from 80 to 100-year-old vines and a vineyard that faces full south. It lies at 700-900 metres and is steeply sloping with soils of decomposed slate/ shale. The wine is aged for 16 months in a combination of large oak foudres and 500l French oak barriques. No new oak is employed. It comes from the Luna Beberide estate which was founded in 1988 and now resides with the second generation, Alejandro Luna Beberide. Today, he has over 50 hectares of vineyards at his disposal, devoted to Mencia and Godello. The Paixar Dragonte is made from fruit grown in several different old plots across their holding.
 
Alejandro’s aim is to respect the terroir and therefore his winemaking style is one of minimal intervention – and it definitely shows in the resultant wine….The aromatic freshness, abundant juiciness and lightness of touch impress me hugely. So pure, so aromatic, so juicy – the 2021 has such a beautiful fruit, like freshly crushed summer berries – all raspberry, loganberry, blueberry, and dark cherry with hints of spice, and mineral nuances. There is such a fine clarity, and the tannins are gently expressed. It has an impeccable sense of energy and poise…soft layers of fruit with perfectly judged ripeness. There is a brightness about this wine – you are aware as you taste that the fruit is high quality and has been impeccably handled. It finishes with vibrancy and tons of character. Even as a young wine, it is hugely appealing. I would be keen to see how it goes with some time in bottle.
 
These are my thoughts, but if you need further convincing, take a look at Luis Gutiérrez’s note and score below. And yes, this is just £155 per 6 bottle case in bond.