1982 Château Gruaud-Larose, St Julien

"The monumental 1982 Gruaud Larose, which I think I've said before is clearly the greatest Gruaud Larose I have ever tasted, and I have had most of them - back through the 1920s. The 1961 stands out, but this wine is maybe one of the youngest, biggest, most massive 1982s, and at age 34 is still going incredibly strong."
Robert Parker

1982 Château Gruaud-Larose, St Julien
£2,000 per 6 bottle case in bond

Request To Buy

The 1982 Bordeaux vintage is considered to be one of the all-time greats and many of the best examples from this vintage are still going strong at 42 years of age. It is worth remembering that this is the vintage that made Robert Parker’s name, when he proclaimed it was a legendary vintage at a very early stage when some critics were not so sure about the exuberant ripeness of the vintage nor the accompanying lower acidity. Time has shown that the 1982s from Bordeaux’s Left Bank have exceptional staying power, such was the ripeness of the Cabernet Sauvignon. Michael Broadbent, who had an almost encyclopaedic knowledge of Bordeaux vintages, and almost unparalleled tasting experience, described the year as offering ‘ideal growing conditions’ and producing ‘a milestone’ vintage. It is quite amazing to assess the results when you consider that yields were far higher back then and technical proficiency was nowhere near the same level as we witness today, a point that James Lawther MW stresses in his book on Bordeaux for The World of Fine Wine.  
 
So, where am I going with this preamble? Well, I am pleased to say that Atlas has just gained exclusive access to a parcel of 1982 Chateau Gruaud-Larose, direct from the cellar of the former proprietor and proprietor of Chateau Talbot, Madame Bignon-Cordier. The Cordiers, who ran a notable negociant, bought Chateau Talbot in 1917. They also took a stake in Chateau Gruaud-Larose, which they sold to the Merlaut family, owners of another negociant, in 1997.  

The parcel of stock which we have acquired has been stored at Chateau Talbot for 20 years. Each case has been opened and assessed. Some bottles have been relabelled and new capsules applied in some instances, all with the assistance of the team at Chateau Gruaud-Larose. Additionally, the wine has been re-packaged in brand new wooden six bottle cases. It is very unusual to be able to access stock with this maturity and such clear provenance.
 
I have enjoyed some great bottles of 1982 Gruaud-Larose over the years – it was certainly one of the vintage’s front-runners. The 1980s, part of the Cordier era, produced some very notable vintages for the estate, but none more so than the 1982. James Lawther’s description of this outstanding St. Julien tallies with my own recollection – he comments ‘The 1982 has always been immense, rich, full and fleshy, the palate oozing fruit but maintaining length and definition’. I always recall the dark fruit and spicy, cigar box complexity of this vintage and the refinement of the tannins – my earliest recollections were perhaps in the late 1990s when I remember the wine’s accessibility on account of that low acidity. At the time, it was one of the finest Bordeaux I had ever tasted, and while my points of comparison have expanded over the years, this was always a wine that could compete with the very best that 1982 had to offer.
 
I have included two notes here from Neal Martin, one from a dinner in London in 2022, and more recently a bottle opened in 2023 directly from the Chateau’s own cellars. This illustrates the benefit of exceptional provenance. You’ll note that he has even extended the drink dates in the most recent note, suggesting the vintage will age to 2050!
 
1982 Chateau Gruaud-Larose
96 points, Neal Martin, vinous.com (January 2023)
This bottle of 1982 Gruaud-Larose came direct from the château cellars. It is just pure joy on the nose with fabulous scents of black fruit, hung game (less so than previous bottles), clove and a faint aroma of a stately home. It manages to offer both ample fruit and life-affirming complexity. The palate has aged little since I last tasted it; there's more red fruit here, with freshly rolled tobacco, cedar and a touch more spiciness on the finish than previous tastings, with a sweet yet structured finish. This may well represent the finest bottle that I have encountered. Drink 2021-2050.
 
95 points, Neal Martin, vinous.com (September 2022)
The 1982 Gruaud Larose is actually similar to the Talbot on the nose - unsurprisingly given their propinquity. Dark berry, rose petal, a touch of oyster shell and even a hint of eucalyptus that surfaces with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supper tannins; there is lovely balance and swagger, so pure and generous. It fans out wonderfully, vying with the Talbot for attention, but at the end of the day, they are both fabulous Saint-Juliens in a vintage when the appellation excelled. Tasted at the 1982 Dinner at Hatched. Drink : 2022-2045
 
And if you needed any more convincing, here is the last note from Robert Parker himself, published in August 2016 in the Hedonist’s Gazette, Issue 955:
 
100 points, Robert Parker, robertparker.com (August 2016)
The color is still opaque garnet/plum/purple. The wine shows licorice, copious quantities of blackcurrants and a hint of licorice, earth and tar. The wine is full-bodied, almost painfully extracted, but the sweet tannin and voluptuous texture that is so much a hallmark of this great vintage are all present in this amazing wine that seems ageless. It will hit 50 years in great shape.
 
And now the important part….42-year-old Bordeaux doesn’t come cheap, as you may have already guessed. Odd bottles of 1982 Gruaud-Larose, of no particular provenance, kick around the UK market at £400 to £500 per bottle. Complete cases, of no particular provenance, start at just over £4800 per 12 in bond. One notable UK merchant has stock listed as ‘ex-Chateau’ at £2000 per 3 bottle case in bond, clearly valuing the importance of provenance.
 
I have left the name of the company off, but this is the listing.

We have acquired a limited volume that we can offer for £2000 per 6 bottle case in bond – I felt this deserved to be in a large font and highlighted as it is basically half the price of stock with similar provenance in the UK market, and at £333 per bottle, it is priced well below all listings for single bottles in the UK market.
 
This is an incredible deal on a great 1982 that is drinking in its prime, but one that still has plenty of life ahead. Opportunities like this do not come along very often, so if you are interested, please let us know at your earliest convenience! While we have a good number of cases, I don’t expect them to hang around…