Simon has just secured a parcel of a really exciting Ribera del Duero, already with eleven years in bottle at £220 per 6 bottle case in bond. The 2004 Finca Villacreces is not something we are able to offer every day and no one else is offering any stock in the UK market.
To be clear, 2004 was a truly outstanding vintage in Ribera del Duero. Many of the best examples of the vintage have either been consumed – even if a little young – or remain quietly nestled in private cellars. To track down such a parcel is very unusual.
The region of the Ribera del Duero straddles the Duero and is centred on the town of Aranda de Duero. It really started to come into its own in the early nineties, following a period of extensive replanting. It can be a challenge to produce fine wine in this region given the viticultural challenges caused by spring frost, hail and autumn rains. The baking summer temperatures that typify such an inland Spanish climate are moderated by altitude (ranging from 750 to 800 metres above sea level), which means that even at the height of August when it is common for daytime temperatures to exceed 35 degrees Celsius, the night time temperatures may be as low as 12 degrees. This is a key factor to the region’s success as it allows the vines some respite and assists in retaining vital acidity and balance in a wine.
In 2004, the Tempranillo (the region’s predominant grape variety also known as Tinto Fino and Tinta del Pais) ripened to near perfect conditions, delivering a terrific density of fruit but with a fine underlying acidity. Any grower who failed to capture the vintage’s potential would be considered in far harsher terms than 'merely unfortunate'. Along with perhaps 2009 and 2001, 2004 is one of the stand-out vintages.
Few critics have tasted the 2004 Finca Villacreces Ribera del Duero as production is little more than 2000 cases. Jay Miller, Spanish reviewer for The Wine Advocate, scored it 95 points when he tasted the young wine back in 2007. He commented as follows :
The 2004 Tinto is 86% Tempranillo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Merlot fermented in barrel and aged in French oak for 16 months. Inky purple, it has an expressive bouquet of mocha/espresso, pain grille, graphite, wild blueberrys, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied, full-flavored, plush wine with layers of spicy black fruits, impeccable balance, and a long, pure finish. The tannins are well concealed but this superb effort should evolve for 4-6 years and drink well through 2027.
Jay Miller’s assessments were sometimes brought into question as he did go through a phase of handing out an incredible array of lofty scores for various Spanish wines. However, his time at The Wine Advocate did coincide with some stunning Spanish vintages and in this instance his faith in a young wine has been borne out. The 2004 Finca Villacreces has developed really well, delivering on that early promise. The nose has evolved to reveal complex notes of mocha, vanilla, herbs all backed by bold, ripe dark berry fruit, whereas the palate now only hints at new oak, with the generous fruit having developed notes of tobacco leaf and a gentle, savoury nuance. This is drinking beautifully today, yet has the capacity to age for five to six years more with relative ease. A great example of what the Ribera has to offer.
If you are looking for fascinating wines that are mature enough to be broached and yet could reward further cellarage if required, then I would suggest that a case or two of 2004 Finca Villacreces, Ribera del Duero at £220 per 6 bottles in bond would be a wise move.