Change is afoot at Domaine Darviot-Perrin. Almost 30 years since inception, husband-and-wife team Didier and Geneviève Darviot are winding down as vignerons. Their daughter, Alix, has been assisting her parents at the Domaine for the last few years, however she has recently made the decision to relinquish her involvement at the Domaine and focus on her own career in the world of art.
For three vintages already, the vineyard work has been sub-contracted to Eric Germain of Vincent Girardin and it is our understanding that Girardin have additionally taken on winemaking for the 2018 and 2019 vintages, with neither vintage being bottled under the Domaine Darviot-Perrin label. Didier and Geneviève’s son, Pierre-Antonin, is currently an oenology student with an apparent interest to follow in his parents’ footsteps. Perhaps in the not-so-distant future, winemaking here will once again be back in the hands of the family.
However, I am happy to say that we have been fortunate enough to have secured some back vintages, namely the 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet, La Bergerie and the 2008 Meursault 1er Cru, Les Genevrières, both offering enormous drinking pleasure now; the 2007 being the more accessible expression of the two, and the 2008 showing impressive purity and energy.
Though based in Monthélie in the Côte de Beaune, most of the wines are produced from holdings in Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Volnay. The Domaine has gathered global acclaim for its focus on producing fruit of impeccable quality, with as little intervention in both the vineyard and cellar as possible, yielding fine wines of incredible focus and precision. The average vine age at Darviot-Perrin is 60 years – the Bergerie offered here is in fact from 100 year old vines! Why is this important? As a vine ages and its roots creep ever deeper, yield and vigour decrease to produce less and less fruit, which in turn increases flavour concentration in the grape. Consequently, we have found ourselves to be impressed year on year by the intensity, balance and energy in Darviot-Perrin’s wines, not to mention their capacity to age extremely well. We are very pleased to be offering these two exceptional wines – with the current hiatus at the Domaine, I would encourage you to seize this opportunity while you can!
2007 Chassagne-Montrachet, La Bergerie, Domaine Darviot-Perrin
£280 per 6 bottle case in bond
Still pale in hue, the aromatics gradually unfurl becoming increasingly expressive with time in the glass. The precision here is remarkable, carrying a wealth of pure, fresh fruit on the palate. There is also breath-taking depth and complexity for a village level wine but given the vine age of nearly 100 years, and the impressive location of this lieu-dit, across the road from Darviot’s iconic Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Blanchots Dessous, perhaps this is not surprising. After ten years in bottle this Chassagne is drinking beautifully but should continue to do so for a few more years too. Drink 2019-2023
2008 Meursault 1er Cru, Les Genevrières, Domaine Darviot-Perrin
£470 per 6 bottle case in bond
This 2008 is absolute benchmark Genevrières, conveyed in the precise, mineral-driven Darviot style. Expressive citrus notes come forth on the nose, together with elegant floral aspects and subtle hazelnut. Like the Bergerie this takes time to come out of its (bottled) shell but, as it does so, the pristine, detailed and above all complex and seamlessly harmonious palate deliver a glorious Genevrières that finishes with subtle honey notes allied to vibrant peach and citrus fruit length. There is so much life and energy to this excellent 2008 Premier Cru Meursault. Drink 2019-2025
Please let us know of your interest.
Take care,
Richard