2019 Morillon, Grassnitzberg, Weingut Tement
£215 per 6 bottle case in bond
From the parcel ‘Sprung’ in Grassnitzberg, this is a cool, slightly north-facing plateau, which excels in fine vintages. The 35-year old vines are grown on soils consisting of coralline limestone. The wine is aged on its fine lees for 24 months before bottling.
Pale in hue, on the nose you are immediately aware that this wine is from a cool-climate, northern hemisphere. There is something in the slightly leesy, toasted almond nuance to the citrus fruits on the nose. While barrel-fermented, there is little impact on the nose, it is simply a background nuance. With air, more complex, wet-stone and limey citrus emerges. On the palate, it reveals terrific depth of fruit, while retaining a lightness of touch. Classically-proportioned, there is a silky, flowing accent to the expression on the palate; just enough of an appley and orchard fruit accent, yet picking up subtle touches of riper stone fruit. Those tangy citrus nuances keep the sense of vibrancy flowing as the palate leads to a fantastically long, chiselled chalky finish. This is an outstanding Morillon (Chardonnay) packed with tension, exuding class. The tension is such that it should appeal to Puligny-Montrachet drinkers of yesteryear as there is a distinctive cool-climate, minerally tension. Stunning. (SL). Drink 2023-2038.
This is exceptional, and frankly few village-level Puligny-Montrachet match this quality, even if they exceed the price-point. I can’t say it any clearer than that. I should add that, in the Tement hierarchy, this is a village wine!
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All the best,