Elio Grasso 2011

The 2011 vintage for Barolo was always going to be a little ‘after the Lord Mayor’s show’…The 2010 vintage marked a recent high point for the region, a classic vintage with great ageing potential. Early murmurings of the 2011 Barolo did not paint as compelling a picture as the 2010s nor was it such a uniform vintage. However, as Antonio Galloni recently commented:
 
'The personalities of the truly great sites are very much alive in the best 2011s, but as one moves down the ladder of vineyard quality things get a little trickier and less defined. In 2011, the wines are deeply marked by the specific choices producers made, whereas in years like 2010 it is the vintage itself that speaks most eloquently'.

It is a vintage that will show well in its youth, borne of a warm, largely dry vintage. Stylistically – and this comment only relates to the best of the vintage – it compares to 2007 or perhaps even 2009, both successful vintages; with many 2007s starting to show really well now and 2009s demanding of perhaps a bit greater patience.

Among the most successful wines of the 2011 vintage we find the two Baroli of Elio Grasso. Given the attentive viticultural approach demanded by the conditions, it is no surprise to note the successes registered here. Gianluca joined his father in the family business upon completely enology school in Alba in the early 2000s. His involvement has been a blessing on two counts; his skill and talent in the winery have improved the quality of the wines dramatically and in turn this allows his father, Elio, to focus where he excels: the vineyard. 

Gavarini Chiniera is a vineyard located at the front of the stunningly situated house and winery. Situated a little further eastwards towards Serralunga is the vineyard Ginestra Case Maté. Both Barolo are made in exactly the same way from the same yields, aged between eighteen months and two years in Slavonian oak barrels depending on the vintage. The differences between these two wines is derived from the terroir; Chiniera is a sandier site, while Case Maté has more clay. While Chiniera is more reticent and withdrawn, Case Maté is more perfumed and powerful. However, in time – a decade or more – the Gavarini becomes more elegant and floral while the Case Maté  loses some of its initial exuberance and begins to show the tarry dark fruit characters.

Please note we have very little of each on account of the tiny production volume, so orders may need to be rationed.
 
2011 Barolo, Gavarini Vigna Chiniera, Elio Grasso
£275 per 6 bottles in bond (£550 per 6 magnums in bond)

(92-95) points, Antonio Galloni 
The 2011 Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Sweet floral and spice notes meld into bright red stone fruits and mint, all supported by fine, chalky tannins that give the wine its sense of energy and tension. Rose petal, mint and perfumed red berries wrap around the textured finish. The 2011 is vivid, alive and crystalline in its beauty. There is plenty of potential here.