Last year we held a dinner at which we tasted wines from the various Antinori estates including Tignanello, Castello della Salla, Ornellaia and Guado al Tasso.
The latter estate, Guado al Tasso, is based in Bolgheri, just to the south of Ornellaia and some 50 miles southwest of the city of Florence. It is a large estate, extending over some 300 hectares (750 acres), although perhaps the least well-known of the Antinori holdings.
The Grand Vin, Guado al Tasso itself, is a blend of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc in support, yet Antinori have sought to add new wines to the portfolio, namely two varietal wines in Cont’Ugo and Matarocchio.
It is fair to say that the quality has certainly taken a significant step forward at Guado al Tasso, as noted by Antonio Galloni:
‘In recent years, the flagship wine has improved markedly with the introduction of Cabernet Franc in place of Syrah. More recently, the estate has introduced a 100% Merlot, Cont’Ugo and a pure 100% Cabernet Franc, Matarocchio. Taken together the quartet of wines from Guado al Tasso have elevated the property to one of the crown jewels in the Antinori empire.’ – Antonio Galloni
The turn-around has been significant and I was really surprised by the quality of the Cont’Ugo which we tasted – more out of curiosity than anything – in the office recently. This pure Merlot showed a degree of harmony and finesse above its price point. It offered a supple, fresh stone-fruit character of damson and dark cherry. Mid-weight, sleek in texture, there was a pleasing freshness to the palate. The purity was unexpected as 2012 was a warm vintage in Bolgheri and – if anything – I was expecting a few hints of sur-maturité and a jammy fruit. Instead it was a refined, ripe, expressive Merlot for its level. There is gentle grip of tannin, lending direction without hindering immediate enjoyment. Even in a professional tasting environment the bottle did not last long.
I could not help thinking Antinori have decided to re-assert their credentials up and down the scale at the Guado al Tasso estate, as the upper-end Matarocchio impressed in a completely different manner late last year. This point is backed up by recent Galloni scores, in which Matarrochio and Cont’Ugo both won considerable endorsements.
2012 Cont’Ugo, Bolgheri, Antinori
£145 per 6 bottles in bond
93 points, Antonio Galloni
The 2012 Cont'Ugo, 100% Merlot from the Antinori family's Guado al Tasso property in Bolgheri, is shaping up to be another beauty. Mocha, black cherries, menthol, licorice and spices are all woven together gracefully. The rich, resonant finish is classic Bolgheri. Drinking 2015-2027
Another great value from an estate of growing profile. It left me wondering whether I could find a varietal Merlot from anywhere else in the world that could easily compete on price and quality…now there is a challenge!