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2019 Morillon, Ried Grassnitzberg, Weingut Tement - I can't praise this estate's wines enough

June 2023

 

2019 Morillon, Ried Grassnitzberg, Weingut Tement -
I can't praise this estate's wines enough

£215 per 6 bottle case in bond

familie-tement - Copy

Request To Buy


White Burgundy stocks running low? Feeling priced out of the wines you used to buy without much thought? Help is at hand.
 
Honestly, read this offer carefully as this estate is making epic wines; I have said it before and, forgive me, I’ll say it again, Weingut Tement In Austria’s South Styria make breath-taking wines. Having tasted a set of samples this morning, my view of this outstanding estate has only been elevated further. I could contextualise this by saying that over a week ago we tasted a range of white Burgundy samples, only to conclude none were particularly up to scratch, though a couple were passable, but passable isn’t what I am looking for if I am going to endorse something.
 
A bit of background
 
Weingut Tement is situated in southern Austria towards the Slovenian border in a region known as Südsteiermark (South Styria). Styria is one of the three main regions for wine production in Austria and half of its production comes from South Styria – the region towards the Slovenian border – though it extends over no more than 2,500 hectares. You will not find Grüner Veltliner or Riesling dominating wine production here, but rather Sauvignon Blanc and Morillon (the local name for Chardonnay).
 
The Tement winery itself lies on a small plateau above the Zieregg vineyard, affording dramatic views into neighbouring Slovenia. Interestingly, the Tement family also own Domaine Ciringa over the Slovenian border, where they produce wines from the continuation of the Zieregg vineyard, ‘Ciringa’ in Slovenian. Today, it is brothers Armin and Stefan who run the estate, together with their father Manfred. All their holdings are cultivated organically and both estates were certified organic in 2018 after a lengthy conversion process – they have been part of the Demeter Association since 2022.
 
A great deal of care is taken to elevate quality. Yields are kept low, only indigenous yeasts are used for fermentation and the leading wines are fermented and then aged in large old oak foudre for up to 20 months. Minimal sulphur is employed, and only at bottling, and all the wines are bottled with a glass stopper so there is no impact from any defective corks. Everything is about revealing the terroir as clearly as possible, and it is that clarity that renders this range so compelling. These are truly outstanding wines.


2019 Morillon, Grassnitzberg, Weingut Tement
£215 per 6 bottle case in bond 

From the parcel ‘Sprung’ in Grassnitzberg, this is a cool, slightly north-facing plateau, which excels in fine vintages. The 35-year old vines are grown on soils consisting of coralline limestone. The wine is aged on its fine lees for 24 months before bottling.

Pale in hue, on the nose you are immediately aware that this wine is from a cool-climate, northern hemisphere. There is something in the slightly leesy, toasted almond nuance to the citrus fruits on the nose. While barrel-fermented, there is little impact on the nose, it is simply a background nuance. With air, more complex, wet-stone and limey citrus emerges. On the palate, it reveals terrific depth of fruit, while retaining a lightness of touch. Classically-proportioned, there is a silky, flowing accent to the expression on the palate; just enough of an appley and orchard fruit accent, yet picking up subtle touches of riper stone fruit. Those tangy citrus nuances keep the sense of vibrancy flowing as the palate leads to a fantastically long, chiselled chalky finish. This is an outstanding Morillon (Chardonnay) packed with tension, exuding class. The tension is such that it should appeal to Puligny-Montrachet drinkers of yesteryear as there is a distinctive cool-climate, minerally tension. Stunning. (SL). Drink 2023-2038.


This is exceptional, and frankly few village-level Puligny-Montrachet match this quality, even if they exceed the price-point. I can’t say it any clearer than that. I should add that, in the Tement hierarchy, this is a village wine!
 
Please let us know of your interest.
 
All the best,
 
Simon

 
morillon ried grassnitzberg
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