I have been assessing a good number of rosés from the end of February into March, and I have a couple of new wines to offer in due course. That said, it isn’t all change; simply put I struggle to get past the value offered by the 2019 Il Rosato from Nervi in Piemonte – this exceptional rosé has been a mainstay for us since we first tasted in three years ago with such positive feedback from our clients.
A little background for you :
• Roberto Conterno (of Barolo estate Giacomo Conterno and Monfortino fame) bought a 90% stake in Nervi in 2018.
• Nervi, the oldest winery in the region, is located in Gattinara in Alto Piemonte, to the north of Piemonte itself.
• Il Rosato is made from 100% Nebbiolo.
• 2019 is the best vintage yet, with the Conterno team now positively influencing the estate’s production since the initial investment.
I think the Nervi comfortably falls into that category of pale rosé, where nothing is too overstated, a dry style with mouth-watering fruit and a zesty finish. This individual wine always seems to capture subtle floral aromas and hints of summer red fruits, all allied to an orangey tang of acidity. As I have mentioned before, it takes skill to produce a Nebbiolo Rosato with sufficient character and concentration, without extracting too much from the skins or producing a wine lacking in character, and I think the team at Nervi has absolutely nailed it with the 2019 – comfortably the best vintage we have tasted yet. There is real value to be found in rosés from less common grape varieties and it isn’t necessary to pay up with the big brands that produce the pale Provençal styles. Yes, some Côtes de Provence are very good, but it is possible to find characterful wines for less in perhaps more unfamiliar territory. I would encourage you to broaden your horizons, with the Nervi and the other rosé offers to come.
I have included a note from Eric Guido, who joined Antonio Galloni at vinous.com.
2019 Il Rosato, Nervi
£110 per 6 bottle case including duty and VAT
92 points, Eric Guido, vinous.com
The 2019 Nervi Il Rosato is spicy and remarkably fresh, mixing ripe melon and apple notes with hints of almond paste and savory herbs, which lends a seductive yet savory edge. It’s soothing upon entry with a twang of zesty acids and salty minerals, with more of a red fruit and almost-licorice quality, as a note of rosy florals slowly fades. This 100% Nebbiolo Rosato from northern Piedmont is impossible to resist. Drink 2020-2022.
Please let us know if you wish to order, specifying whether you would like immediate delivery.
All the best,
Simon