There is no secret to the 2009 vintage in the Rhone Valley. Its success can be attributed to two factors. Firstly the morale of the producers in the region was very high – with such a succession of fine vintages over the course of the last ten years, they had been inclined to further investment in both vineyard and cellar. The second driving force is undoubtedly the weather, which in 2009 was near enough perfect.
Winter and spring were both cold and wet. This provided an ideal start as it allowed the vine to store energy and water in advance of the torrid growing season ahead. Indeed the vintage followed a pattern of dry vintages in the Rhone in which there was no recordable rainfall between June and August. In August, over a two week spell, it actually became significantly hotter. This could have been catastrophic if the vines had become stressed and shut down. However, the real heat of the summer arrived after veraison (the moment when the fruit changes colour). Maturity was not blocked and the grapes gained in concentration, retaining a fine balance between fruit and structure.
While the heat advanced ripening at a pace, a period of rain in mid-September gave some respite and enabled the grapes to continue their development right up until the end of the month. The resultant increased hang-time is a significant factor in the refinement of tannins; the 2009s are characterised by silky, fine tannins – in some cases barely perceptible beneath the concentration of fruit. The fine weather conditions, which continued during harvest, allowed each plot to be picked at the optimum moment. This again contributed to the great quality of the vintage. The quality was further amplified by yields that were naturally reduced by as much as thirty per cent on account of the dry conditions. These healthy grapes produced wines of great colour; ripe, expressive, concentrated fruit and gentle but noticeable tannins, well-woven into the wine. This is a great vintage for Châteauneuf-du-Pape with one notable grower commenting: “(these are) the finest grapes I have harvested since 1974”.
Domaine du Pegau
Originally called Domaine Feraud, this estate has been in the same family since the late 17th century. The vineyard holdings were increased by Leon Feraud during his tenure. His youngest son Paul duly took over, with Paul’s daughter Laurence becoming involved in 1987. It was at this time the name changed to reflect the expansion and ambition of the domaine. A ‘Pégau’ is the name that was given to a drinking vessel excavated from the 14th century Papal palace in Avignon.
The estate comprises 50 acres of vineyards almost entirely devoted to red wine. It is almost entirely within Châteauneuf-du-Pape; a small plot of Vin de Pays is also owned by the domain. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape is sourced from 11 different plots. The diversity due to these plots accounts for the complexity and style of the three different cuvées.
The Cuvée Réservée is the principal wine produced at the domaine. It is regularly a contender for the finest wine of the vintage.
In certain years a small selection will be made, in the cellar, for Cuvée Laurence. This wine will see an additional two years in large, old, oak foudres and harks back to Châteauneuf-du-Pape of yester-year in style, with sublime harmony and complexity already achieved by the time of bottling.
The Cuvée da Capo meanwhile hinges on the extrovert ripeness of various parcels of incredibly old Grenache and showcases a particular style that Laurence looks for. It is thus only made in special vintages, which are not necessarily the widely acclaimed ones. If Laurence does not feel the style is naturally achieved then the fruit will be used in the other cuvées instead. So, for example, despite 2009 being an exceptional vintage, there will be no Cuvée da Capo. It would be hard to argue with the winemaker’s rationale as Capo owes as much to Laurence’s vision as it does to nature. The last vintage was 2007.
In style, Pégau is a solid structured, almost beefy wine, but one which nonetheless possesses tremendous elegance and finesse. It has those so often contradictory qualities of richness and weight on the one hand, definition and refinement on the other. It goes without saying that the wines of the Pégau stable offer considerable ageing potential in almost every vintage.
Domaine du Pégau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée 2009
Certainly one of the most recognisable and individual styles of any Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate, Domaine du Pégau have made a classic in 2009. There is no Cuvée da Capo this vintage so all the domain’s best fruit is incorporated here. Spicy and peppery on the nose with plenty of meaty, savoury nuances, this instantly reminds of the 2000. It is a fine-tuned wine for one of such richness. Ample, dusky, damson fruits and firm, velvety tannins are offset by a bright acidity, which highlights the completeness and balance. I think this will surprise many in years to come as it is a rich wine but on tight lines. It might outlive many counterparts this vintage. This 2009 certainly illustrates the pedigree of Pégau. Stunning.
£420 per 12 bottles in bond
Domaine Giraud
Current proprietors, sister and brother, Marie and Francois Giraud are the sixth generation of their family to run the domain. Over that time the vineyards have increased from four hectares to 19 in total with plots on many of the best terroirs of the appellation. Among their holdings, they have plots on the Crau plateau, at Terres Blanches, in the sandy soils of Pignan and in the Rayas area – these last two famed for the elegance of their wines – and a great 8 hectare parcel of very old Grenache in Les Gallimardes which really shone in 2009. This diversity of vineyard holdings presents Domaine Giraud with capacity to fashion some of the region’s most compelling wines. Each plot is picked and vinified separately and there is minimal intervention in both vineyard and cellar.
The Les Gallimardes cuvée is made predominantly from the eponymous parcel of 100 year old Grenache vines planted in the south of the appellation. A number of passes are made through the vineyard at harvest to ensure that only the ripest fruit is selected. The Grenache is vinified in vat, the small percentage of the Syrah in barrique. There is no fining or filtering. Each year about 650 cases are made, which equates to roughly half the production of the Tradition cuvée, their entry level Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The hallmark of Les Gallimardes is the great purity of fruit and definition allied to the power and concentration from the low yielding old vines. In 2009 it is one of the wines of the vintage. Interestingly Domaine Giraud did not produce their other cuvée, Les Grenaches de Pierre, in this vintage. This second cuvée is sourced from two plots on sandy soils – one at La Crau the other near Pignan. As the name suggests this is solely made from 100 year old Grenache, the name of the wine paying homage to their father who always valued the old vines so highly. In 2009, the Grenache suffered in the dry conditions and therefore this cuvée is not present in this vintage.
Domaine Giraud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2009
Great depth of colour in the glass and a heady nose of dark fruits, garrigue and spice notes. This has great concentration in the glass. Expansive, fleshy and almost sweet so ripe is the fruit. This has a very flowing style with almost undetectable tannins and lovely fresh acidity. This is soaring on both nose and palate. Dense and balanced yet very refined. This is very articulate wine making for a Tradition. The combination of small barriers and thick skins has translated really well in 2009. This is a very strong effort for the basic cuvée. It has an almost seamless quality so fine is the balance.
£205 per 12 bottles in bond
2009 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Les Gallimardes, Domaine Giraud
One of the sensational wines of the 2009 vintage, this blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah really impressed us greatly. The nose is striking with a terrific combination of dark cherry, blackberry and lavender scents. A deep wine, with layers of dusky fruit, this shows fine concentration, a less showy example than some this vintage, more tightly wound, with intense flowing black fruit and garrigue notes. Finely expressed tannins and admirable freshness signal a wine of impeccable balance. Long and stylish, the 2009 Gallimardes is set to add to the growing reputation of the Giraud family’s domaine. Impressive.
£385 per 12 bottles in bond
Domaine Pierre Usseglio
As the name might suggest, the roots of the Usseglio family can be traced back to Italy. Indeed Francis Usseglio left Italy in 1931 to work in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. After working for numerous wine producers, he set up his own domain in 1948 when he was able to purchase some vineyard land. He had two sons, Pierre who took over the family estate and Raymond, who established his own domain. Today it is Pierre’s sons, Thierry and Jean-Pierre, who run Domaine Pierre Usseglio and it is they who have driven the reputation of this domain such that it is now considered one of the very finest of the region. No mean feat given that competition is strong in this vast appellation.
The estate comprises 22 hectares of vineyards in 15 different locations. Half of these parcels benefit from 30 year old vines, half from vines in excess of 60 years of age. Tasting the component parts and understanding the way in which Thierry and Jean-Paul handle the fruit from each parcel is a fascinating experience. All the fruit here is de-stemmed; the fruit impeccably ripe, the blends are created with the utmost sensitivity and understanding. Some oak is employed even with Grenache on certain cuvées, but always with care. This whole approach leads to wines of silky fine tannins, glossy textures, scented aromas and flowing fruit. Rich though they are, the wines here do not support the powerhouse tasting notes issued in various journals. They are infinitely more refined, and show as very elegant, impressive Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The combination of old vines, great vineyards and meticulous winemaking is very hard to beat.
Of the three cuvées produced, the Tradition is the starting point. It is a blend of predominantly Grenache with the addition of Cinsault, Mourvedre and Syrah. The blend varies from vintage to vintage but it is always textbook Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This cuvée has improved greatly in recent years as Thierry is keen to increase its standing. Indeed the 2008 ranks as one of the outstanding values of that vintage, benefitting as it does from fruit that would have otherwise been used in the Mon Aïeul or Deux Frères cuvées, had they been made.
Cuvée Mon Aïeul is sourced from three different terroirs, including La Crau. It is pure Grenache from very old vines and stands testament to the inherent quality of this grape when cultivated and vinified with care. If Mon Aïeul (a French word for ‘ancestor’) is in memory of their father then the Cuvée Deux Frères has a much more obvious connotation. This latter is a fascinating, mould-breaking wine, it is sourced from the oldest vines from all the different plots. Over half is matured in barriques (from new up to three years of age) and the rest is aged in tank. Production is very limited and, as is always the case, the estate’s flagship wine is only produced in great years.
Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2009
A blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault – it is clear to see that Thierry and Jean-Pierre Usseglio have worked hard to elevate the quality of their Tradition cuvée and this is certainly the best yet. The majority of this wine is aged in tank though a greater proportion now sees foudre and 10% even small oak barriques. Always an enticing style, the nose offers characters of sweet, spiced raspberry, with a lifted, scented quality. The palate follows in an effortless vein, sleek and flowing, with barely perceptible tannins and a broad mouth feel. This is an impressive young wine, with plenty of scented provencal herb characters allied to juicy cherry and loganberry fruit. Flowing to the last, this will prove hugely enjoyable in its youth though will undoubtedly evolve for a decade.
£590 per 6 magnums in bond
Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul 2009
Almost entirely Grenache as per the norm – just 5% of Syrah makes it into the blend this year. The 2009 adds to the notable run of vintages for this cuvée, which despite various critics’ reviews, has to be one of the most elegant of all Châteauneuf. The fresh, scented nature so typical of the wines of this domain is apparent on the nose, as is a deep dark fruit which suggests blueberry and damson. There is a very complete nature to this 2009 – the wine seems so well-knit already. Layers of ripe fruits are on show, coupled with notes of roasted herbs and meat. Effortless, elegant and with a generous fruit, this is gently spicy with a touch of sweet liquorice to the finish. Pure, defined and sleek, there is plenty here to interest – a wine that can evolve over the next ten to fifteen years but is likely to tempt and reward far sooner.
£245 per 6 bottles in bond
£590 per 6 magnums in bond
Domaine Pierre Usseglio, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Deux Frères 2009
A very limited production, Cuvée Deux Frères is only made in years where the quality befits the style. In 2009 just 375 cases of this pure Grenache were produced. Part of the cuvée is aged in tank, part old foudre and 30% in new oak casks (the only wine in the Usseglio cellar to do so). This is opaque in the glass, with a startling aroma of blackberry, blueberry, juicy forest fruits, almost hints of toast and dark chocolate. Intense and rich, the fruit on the palate follows in a similar vein with spicier elements noticeable. There is such purity here and a glossy mouth feel with staggeringly intense fruit that the oak nuances are barely perceptible. Always a rich example, bigger than the Aïeul, the 2009 will again flatter at an earlier stage than the norm, though this possesses the potential to age for a couple of decades, gaining in complexity all the while. A head-turning Châteauneuf.
£475 per 6 bottles in bond
Domaine La Barroche
Domaine la Barroche is currently administered by the young Julien Barrot, whose family have been making wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since the 14th century. The domain stretches over 30 acres of vines situated mainly in the north and north east of the appellation. Most parcels are around 60 years of age but there is a considerable parcel of Grenache, whose vines were planted over a century ago! In spite of their age, the vineyards are immaculate. At the point of harvest there is a manual sorting of the grapes both in the vineyard and again on arrival at the cellars.
Julien takes his time over the blends he assembles, vinifying parcels separately to increase his flexibility when it comes to the final blend. He invariably produces three or four different wines. Fiancée is a blend of Syrah and Grenache in equal proportions - this is not produced every year and owes much of its style to the quality of the Syrah in a given vintage. Pure is the showpiece here; produced from a single plot of 100 year old Grenache, which is matured traditionally in 35 hectolitre oak foudres. This is another testament to the quality of old vine Grenache as a mono-cépage. The Signature is also worth seeking out here; capable of ageing over the mid-term; there is a supple, accessibility to the wine which permits consumption almost from shipment.
Julien continues to win plaudits for his wines and his reputation goes from strength to strength. These are very fine wines with terrific ripeness and balance. Not lacking in weight or expression, they impress with their purity and copious fruit. This domain continues to improve and is certainly one to follow.
Domaine la Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Signature 2009
Sourced from a combination of sand, clay and limestone soils, the 2009 is blend of 66% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, 13% Syrah and 6% Cinsault. The combination of differing terroirs and grape varieties makes for a thrilling Châteauneuf. The nose offers up an intriguing combination of red fruits, spice and cherry liqueur and even a little herb. The palate is deep and intense. Lovely clarity of fruit. Good concentration and great balance. This is an expansive wine with a broad palate but not at all clumsy. It retains the definition and opulence that characterise Julien Barrot's wines. This could be consumed relatively young and it would be hard not to do so but patience for a couple of years will pay dividends.
£270 per 6 bottles in bond
Domaine la Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pure 2009
The top cuvée of Barroche from century old Grenache vines is consistently one of the finest wines of the appellation. This has a heady, opulent nose with red cherries, kirsch and raspberry notes. The palate is almost opaque, so rich is the fruit. There is such mass that the silky tannins are almost invisible and the structure is submerged beneath the wealth of red and black fruits. This has a velvet texture and the sheer quality of the old vines dominates this wine completely. There is a fresh acidity to the palate as well as finesse – a thrilling combination of power and elegance that will last for some years. This is a layered wine, alternating between spice, fruit and herbs all seamlessly blended together. This definitely has the constitution for the long haul.
£450 per 6 bottles in bond
Domaine Marc Sorrel
Marc Sorrel is one of the Rhone’s finest wine producers. He took on responsibility for the domain in 1982 following on from his father Henri’s ill health and is only the third generation of his family to run the estate founded by his grandfather Felix in 1927.
The great sweep of terraced, granite hillsides that comprise Hermitage enjoy broad southern exposure and the river and rock combine to reflect and store the sunlight and produce perfectly ripe grapes in great vintages. Marc Sorrel believes that only absolutely ripe grapes can provide the structure and depth of great Hermitage. He practices organic farming and neither filters nor fines his wines. He has four hectares of vines in total – he inherited only two from his father but soon expanded the domain into Crozes-Hermitage. Nonetheless his focus remains on making elegant long-lived Hermitage of classical purity.
His entry level Hermitage Classique in 2009 is, in his opinion, the finest he has ever made but the world clamours for his Le Gréal. This latter is of a miniscule production of between 150 to 200 cases a year and is sourced from the two vineyards Greffieux and Meal, both of which are almost at the summit of the Hermitage slope. Nearly 90% of Le Gréal comes from the Méal vineyard, the balance from Greffieux, hence the name. It is one of the great wines of France and belongs in the elite of Hermitage. Despite its lofty status it continues to offer impressive value even in great vintages such as 2009. In our visits to the domain over the last seven years, we consider the 2009 to be the finest young Hermitage we have tasted at Monsieur Sorrel’s cellars.
Domaine Marc Sorrel, Hermitage Le Gréal 2009
Certainly opaque in the glass, the monumental Le Gréal 2009 reveals ripe cassis on the nose, with a sweet accent and an earthy mineral quality behind. The palate is full, powerful with a sublime concentration of black fruit. This is a rich wine, yet retains poise and freshness. The tannins are prominent at present, despite the attempts of the fruit to veil them, yet there is no sense of dryness. Everything is present here for a majestic, long-lived Hermitage to emerge in 10 years time – there really is exciting potential on show here. The finish is long and flowing with a marked stony mineral nuance and almost jammy blackberry/ cassis fruit.
£345 per 6 bottles in bond