Domaine Hubert Lamy
An extensive tasting with Olivier Lamy in November showed once again just how good this domaine is. Across a number of vineyards, the winemaking consistently impresses, yet the wines remain excellent value and we are delighted to continue our allocation with Olivier and his wife Karine this year.
Vineyards have been in the family since the 17th century. Olivier joined his father Hubert formally at the domaine in 1995 but had been firmly ensconced in command for some years before and now controls 17 hectares of vineyard over 18 appellations. His wines are often the finest of the entire appellation of Saint Aubin and are principally from Premier Cru vineyards. Olivier is a thoughtful, intelligent winemaker who has driven the quality of his white wines to very high levels indeed. Although 75 per cent of production is Chardonnay, the quality of red wines has risen dramatically since Olivier’s arrival. One well known and respected commentator has suggested that Olivier Lamy is just about the most talented young winemaker in Burgundy.
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin 1er Cru, Clos du Meix 2014
Olivier has just 0.70 hectares of Premier Cru Clos du Meix which were planted in 1985. It is a warm, sheltered Premier Cru vineyard from which he makes wines that are more accessible in youth than his other cuvées, yet still uphold the domaine’s elegant style. The 2014 has a slightly bigger, more imposing palate than the 2013 but retains the vibrancy and citrus zest so typical of this wine. Olivier is particularly careful with the amount of new oak he employs for the élèvage of this wine, resulting in very gentle hints of almond alongside the aromatic citrus finish. Drink 2016-2020
£110 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin 1er Cru, Clos de la Chatenière 2014
Olivier has 1.25 hectares from this small Premier Cru vineyard of 8.5 hectares, which was planted by his father in 1965. This is notoriously a difficult parcel to harvest due to the precipitous nature of the slopes here, but the reward is a wine that is more powerful than the Clos du Meix and one that demands another year or two of ageing. The 2014 shows lively and elegant notes of honeysuckle and passionfruit on the nose, followed by a tightly-woven palate. The precise, focussed citrus verve suggests good potential for mid-term ageing and development, as does the long, fine finish where hints of grapefruit, pepper and lemon intermingle with a fragrant, aromatic character. Drink 2017-2021
£130 per six bottles in bond
Domaine Hubert Lamy, St. Aubin 1er Cru, En Remilly 2014
With an enviable reputation (as befits a vineyard that lies just next to Grand Crus Chevalier-Montrachet and Le Montrachet), En Remilly is also a large vineyard (30 hectares) of which Olivier owns a not insubstantial two hectares, planted in 1989. Here, at the top of the vineyard slope, poor soils are rendered even more challenging to work by strong winds yet these same winds help to build concentration of fruit and keep the crop healthy. In 2014 En Remilly has a slightly broader, more voluminous palate than the Chatenière, with a rich, intense nature. Even so it retains the typical zip and freshness of the Domaine’s style, along with notes of brioche and almond. This will require a couple of years of patience before drinking beautifully over the mid-term. Drink 2016-2022
£130 per six bottles in bond