The Southern Rhône has enjoyed an enviable run of vintages, as we commented when we released the impressive 2009s late last year. And 2010 is not about the break the cycle. Indeed it has the potential to be one of the very best vintages of the last 20 years.
The spring of 2010 was characterised by conditions both cooler and wetter than the norm. The major challenge was coulure, a flowering issue which invariably results in lower yields. Grenache is particularly susceptible and the overall crop of this, the dominant variety in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, was down 30-40 per cent. At least in 2010 growers can console themselves with the fact that low yields have been compensated for by above average quality. Cool conditions continued through May and June, with vine growth consequently slow. While the spring had been wet, the summer was one of the driest on record – a factor which served to suppress yields still further. A staggering fact is that there was less July and August rainfall in 2010 than there had been in 2003. Even the winds of the Mistral seemed calmer than in recent vintages. The 2010s are thus a beautiful marriage of natural concentration to an elevated freshness on both nose and palate. Low yields, due to the combination of poor flowering and the dry summer, gave the former; unseasonably cool evening/night temperatures have led to the latter.
So, what can you expect of the wines?
This is a vintage which is concentrated but not overly imposing. These are terrific, vibrant styles of wine with lifted aromas and far better direction on the palate than more heat-marked years. Given the propensity of near-varietal Grenache wines, this added aromatic profile provides an extra dimension this year. You will not find sur-mature, baked fruit or figgy notes in the wines offered here. The tannins reveal impressive, sleek, fine-grained, sweet qualities, which in talented hands produce an impression of seamlessness on the palate. These wines will be irresistible in their youth. But the harmony, structure and proportion are such that they will be capable of ageing for decades.
To compare 2010 to 2009 will be fascinating; two great vintages side by side, both from comparatively low-yielding harvests. The latter’s tannic frame may prove a little more assertive than that of the 2010s, but there is admirable richness of fruit in both. Recent tastings of 2009s from Domaine La Barroche and Domaine Pierre Usseglio have shown the wines have closed down a touch and now need patient cellaring. The 2009s are lower acid styles compared to the 2010s and will therefore be lusher in nature. The 2010s are perhaps more refined, restrained in some ways, with a lifted, fragrant character coursing through the palate. Subtle differences in style but, for my palate, they are of near equal quality. I would, in fact, generally place the 2010s a nudge ahead. I prefer both 2009 and 2010 to the more heat-marked 2007s, which diced with excess as much as they flirted with perfection. The 2007s will need considerable patience and are generally headier, more solid styles. What impresses so much with the 2010s is the vibrancy – a character trait that is more infrequent than growers would wish. This trait, which impressed so greatly in 2001 and added early appeal in 2004, is in evidence in 2010 but is coupled with far greater concentration than either of those vintages showed in the main.
In short, this is a truly exceptional vintage whose defining characteristic is freshness. The climatic conditions delivered impressive raw material to a talented group of vignerons and winemakers. There is potential for this vintage to go down as one of the real greats. Seldom have we tasted such a harmonious, natural and elegant set of wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Simon Larkin MW
Managing Director
Domaine La Barroche
Domaine la Barroche has been run for a mere 6 vintages by the young Julien Barrot, whose family have however been making wine in Châteauneuf-du-Pape since the 14th century. The domaine stretches over 30 acres of vines situated mainly in the north and north-east of the appellation. Most vines are around 60 years of age but there is a considerable parcel of Grenache that was planted over a century ago. The vineyards are immaculate.
Julien vinifies each parcel separately to increase his flexibility when it comes to the final blend. The Signature bottling is the great beneficiary of his approach. It exhibits a supple accessibility which permits consumption almost from shipment while not taking away from a capacity to age. Pure meanwhile is an astonishing wine produced from a single plot of 100-year-old Grenache that is then matured traditionally in 35-hectolitre, oak foudres. It is a testament to the quality of old vine Grenache as a mono-cépage.
These are very fine wines with terrific ripeness and balance. We consider 2010 to be Julien’s finest vintage yet in his relatively short career – perhaps just eclipsing the impressive 2009s. He is already responsible for some of the truly great wines of the region. They impress by their rich, copious and expansive fruit and also by their purity, supreme balance and definition. This has to be one of the most exciting domaines within the vast appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Domaine la Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Signature 2010
Sourced from a multitude of different vineyard parcels, the 2010 is a blend of largely Grenache allied to near equal proportions of Mourvèdre and Syrah and with a little Cinsault.
To find a cuvée of this level that exhibits such concentration and refinement is rare. Deep and vibrant in the glass, the nose reveals notes of spice, cherry liqueur and blueberry. The 2010 Signature is instantly appealing and accessible with bold, ripe fruit. Notes of spice and garrigue gently build to the finish, though it is always the copious ripe, dark red fruits that take centre stage in Barroche’s Signature. Again that tell-tale 2010 freshness is on show adding dimension to both nose and palate. Effortless with silky, fine tannins and remarkable length. As ever this will be tempting in its youth, but given the balance and concentration, it should age incredibly well. 2013 to 2022.
£265 per 12 bottles in bond
Domaine la Barroche, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Pure 2010
The top cuvée of Barroche is made from century-old Grenache vines on sandy soil in the lieu-dit of Grand Pierre and is aged in foudre. It is fast becoming one of the finest wines of the appellation.
The 2010 reveals tremendous potential and ranks as one of the truly head-turning wines of the region. The aromas show perhaps a little more restraint than the 2009; they are more fragrant with notes of dark cherry, scented red berry and garrigue. This is as mouth-filling as one has come to expect, yet with a more detailed impression, and a seamless nature to the palate. There is a terrific sense of vibrant, ripe fruit on show in the 2010, which finishes in a drier, more savoury manner than the preceding vintage. Despite its undeniable weight, there is a lightness of touch here; a stunning balance which is brought about by a more marked acidity. Long and pure, as befits the name, this wine seldom ceases to amaze. 2016 to 2028. [Please kindly note that a balancing purchase of 2010 Signature is requested on a case for case basis.]
£700 per 6 bottles in bond
Domaine de Pégau
Domaine de Pégau has been in the same family since the late 17th century. In recent years, the vineyard holdings were increased by Léon Feraud during his tenure. He then passed it on to his son, Paul. In 1987, Paul’s daughter Laurence took over and it now rests in her capable hands.
The 18 hectares of vineyard are almost entirely devoted to red wine, almost entirely Châteauneuf-du-Pape sourced from 11 different plots. It is this diversity of vineyard holdings which accounts for the complexity and style of the wines. The Cuvée Reservée is often a contender for the finest standard cuvée of the vintage. The style of Pégau is solidly structured, an almost beefy wine, but one that still has elegance and finesse. It has considerable ageing potential and the domaine’s reputation is fully deserved.
Domaine de Pégau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvée Reservée 2010
80% Grenache, 12% Syrah, 4% Mourvèdre and 4% other approved varieties but these figures are approximate because, with the exception of Syrah, all parcels are co-planted.
Opaque in appearance, the nose has the tell-tale Grenache influence of kirsch and black cherry, violets and also a sous bois component. Surprisingly accessible, there is fine acidity and elegant tannins that appear woven into the structure of the wine which aids its accessibility. This is a spectacular effort in 2010 and a worthy follow on to the brilliant 2009 Pégau. The domaine is at the very top of its métier. 2015-2030
£500 per 12 bottle case
Domaine Giraud
Marie and Francois Giraud are the 6th generation of their family to run Domaine Giraud. Over that time, the vineyards have increased from 4 hectares to 19 and again the plots are in good locations over the appellation. There is a site on the Crau plateau, another at Terres Blanches, some vines in the sandy soils of the Pignan and Rayas areas but almost half of the domaines holdings are in 8 hectares of Les Gallimardes at the very southern end of the appellation and from where the wines derive power and a taut minerality. Each parcel is picked and vinified separately, with minimal intervention in either the vineyard or the winery. All cuvées are bottled without fining or filtration.
Domaine Giraud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tradition 2010
60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre of which only the Syrah is matured in barrique.
The dense colour is typical and the nose is rich exhibiting the tell-tale kirsch element as well as a pronounced ripe dark berry component lifted by a distinct floral note. Full and rich on the palate with ripe tannins and a wealth of dark fruits this is very impressive. Powerful and enveloping on the finish. The low yields of the 2010 vintage shape this terrific Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 2015-2025
£220 per 12 bottles in bond
Domaine Giraud, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Les Gallimardes 2010
90% Grenache from 100-year-old vines, matured in tank and 10% Syrah, aged in barrique.
The 2009 Les Gallimardes was one of the finest wines of the appellation and the 2010 could make the same claim. Sourced from the 8 hectares to the south of the appellation it is always a full throttle example of great Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but it allies this power and depth to a mineral refinement. It has a pronounced nose of blackberry and liquorice while the palate is dense and full but not at all overpowering – a great feature, typical of Giraud’s Gallimardes. This has real drive and energy with a huge amount of upfront fruit which makes it brilliant to taste now. The fine-grained tannins and structure come to the fore to provide great balance on the powerful finish. 2015-2030
£350 per 6 bottles in bond
Domaine Marc Sorrel
Marc Sorrel is one of the elite growers in the Rhone valley. Arguably he is one of France’s finest wine producers. He took on responsibility for the Domaine in 1982 following on from his father Henri’s ill health and is only the third generation of his family to run the Domaine founded by his grandfather Felix in 1927.
The great sweep of terraced hillsides of granite that comprise Hermitage enjoy broad southern exposure and the river and rock combine to reflect and store the sunlight and produce perfectly ripe grapes in great vintages. Marc Sorrel believes that only absolutely ripe grapes can provide the structure and depth of great Hermitage. He practices organic farming and neither filters nor fines his wines. He has 4 hectares of vines (he inherited only two from his Father) but has expanded into Crozes-Hermitage but his focus remains on making elegant long lived Hermitage of classical purity.
His entry level Hermitage Classique in 2009 is, in his opinion, the finest he has ever made but the world clamours for his Le Greal, a miniscule annual production of between 150 to 200 cases sourced from Greffieux and Meal which are two vineyards almost at the summit of the Hermitage slope. Nearly 90% of Le Greal comes from the Meal vineyard. It is one of the great wines of France.
Hermitage, Le Greal, Domaine Marc Sorrel 2010
Certainly opaque in the glass, the monumental 2009 Le Greal reveals ripe cassis on the nose, with a sweet accent and an earthy mineral quality behind. The palate is full, powerful with a sublime concentration of black fruit. This is a rich wine, yet retains poise and freshness. The tannins are prominent at present, despite the attempts of the fruit to veil them, yet there is no sense of dryness. Everything is present here for a majestic, long-lived Hermitage to emerge in 10 years time – there really is exciting potential on show here. The finish is long and flowing with a marked stony mineral nuance and almost jammy blackberry/ cassis fruit.
£385 per 6 bottles in bond