Not to be missed:
Two Tuscan greats from Piaggia
 'Utterly mesmerising'

 

Request To Buy

Where do I start? Let’s cut to the chase. I tasted two outstanding Tuscan reds just recently that blew me away. I would count them as two of the more surprising wines I have tasted this year – I didn’t know what to expect, but they are both truly exceptional.
 
Both wines come from Piaggia, an estate situated in the commune of Poggio a Caiano within the Carmignano DOCG, about 14 kilometres west of Florence. The estate was established in the 1970s by Mauro Vannucci, who was drawn to this location as he was convinced that he could produce a great Carmignano from this site, given its excellent exposure. The first vintage of Piaggia Carmignano Riserva that he produced was the 1991, and it was around this time that he supplemented the estate’s vineyard holding with an additional 15 hectares in a prime area near the centre of the Carmignano district. It is Mauro’s daughter, Silvia, who is the current owner of this 25-hectare estate, which comprises five different vineyard parcels.
 
I am still puzzled as to why I hadn’t heard of Piaggia until now, given the stunning quality of the wines I tasted. One of the reasons is perhaps that Carmignano, despite being historically recognised for the quality of its wines, is a very small DOCG, or appellation, covering around 110 hectares today. To place that into context, it is about the size of the vineyard mass of Château Lafite-Rothschild, with the crucial difference being that it is shared between some 20 or so producers. The Apennines exert a significant influence here; there is a wide range in daily temperatures that assist in retaining freshness and aromatics, and the soils consist of limestone and are well-drained. Along with the indigenous Sangiovese, the Cabernets, Franc and Sauvignon, play a role in many of the wines in Carmignano, but these are no recent additions to the rollcall of varieties grown here – Catherine de’ Medici is said to have brought the varieties to the hills of Carmignano in the 16th century when she became queen of France.
 
In Eric Guido’s review on vinous.com, I read with interest that the Vannuccis have their eyes set on expansion as they believe there are many undiscovered terroirs in Carmignano that are yet to be cultivated. Eric comments that ‘Some locations, just a stone's throw away from each other, would reveal drastically different soil types, from sandy clay to Galestro or layers of primary rock mixed with quartz.’  He goes on to add, ‘At this time, the vineyard totals stand at 22 hectares; yet, even as they grow, the quality here remains amazingly high. In fact, while many other wineries in Carmignano are starting to shine internationally, Piaggia remains its benchmark producer. With a focus on fruit and terroir, Silvia Vannucci continues to dial back on the use of new oak, and the wines really light up the palate as a result. However, oak is used throughout the portfolio as an accent more than an ingredient.’
 
So, just what impressed me so much? The Piaggia wines reveal an easily won ripeness allied to a terrific freshness, clarity, and purity. Such a sense of poise is not easily achieved; it is down to a combination of factors, such as the vineyard site itself, the viticultural practices employed, and the winemaking decisions taken. Above all, it is down to a fanatical focus on quality. When I visit well-known estates across Europe, there is a stated aim, which is to hold on to the quality that is in the fruit and not to diminish it through any heavy-handed approaches in the winery. At one very famous estate, they always smile and say “we did well this year and didn’t take too many wrong decisions”. I like the honesty in those comments. At Piaggia, the wines speak volumes, and you can sense that this same ethos is central to their approach; retain the quality of the fruit. On their website, when discussing the Carmignano Riserva they state that it ‘is made giving special attention to the finest detail: nothing is left to chance, either in the vineyard or in the cellar, because we believe our grapes deserve particular care and attention and because we want to offer the consumer a thrill that tells of the beauty of our vineyards and the aromas of our land.’  I think they have succeeded with these two wines, one from the 2020 vintage and the other from 2019.
 
Please note we invariably offer wines on an in bond basis, but in this instance the wines have been supplied to us duty paid and are therefore offered including duty and VAT.

As you may have gathered, I am delighted to able to offer these two spectacular wines. I think they are truly exciting – the quality belies the price point, as they are so precise and pure. Simply put, they share the attributes of great wines.
 
Please let us know of your interest at your earliest convenience to avoid disappointment as stocks as unsurprisingly limited.
 
All the best,
 
Simon