NEW RELEASES : Hundred Hills
A stunning set of four
2018 Zero Dosage, Hundred Hills
2018 Illustration No. 1, Hundred Hills
A mixed case containing three bottles of each at £300 per 6 bottle case in bond
2019 Blanc de Noirs, Hundred Hills
£300 per 6 bottle case in bond
2019 Hillside No. 3, Hundred Hills
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
I have four exciting new releases for you from Hundred Hills, and when I say new releases, these are entirely new wines.
Stephen Duckett, owner and winemaker of Hundred Hills in the Stonor Valley in south-east Oxfordshire, has always maintained that the range of wines produced will adjust to suit the quality coming from the vineyard. If the fruit from one particular parcel of vines performs incredibly well in one vintage, it may well be showcased in a specific cuvée that year. This means that each year there are likely to be some new wines to taste that we haven’t encountered before.
I haven’t been shy in my praise of Hundred Hills – and frankly I remain staggered by just how far they have come in such a short time. This 50-acre estate was founded in 2013, and since then it has gone from strength to strength. Stephen happily concedes he is way ahead of his plan on account of the quality of the fruit that they are able to harvest year in, year out. And I think that is one of the things that has struck me most; I am not just wowed by a particular vintage here, there is a remarkable consistency which comes from this site. The valley itself is crucial as is its orientation, which means that harvest need not be a rushed affair as they do not encounter any risk of rot as the fruit ripens and can determine the best moment to harvest with relative ease, without pressures forcing their hand. This means that the fruit can hang on the vine well beyond 100 days in a cool vintage and once it is harvested, it reveals a riper fruit spectrum that you might associate with the year, or even with English sparkling wine in general. This underlines the importance of the site, and why Stephen explored over 100 different sites in the UK before deciding where to base his estate.
If you wanted to read more background on Hundred Hills, please follow this link to my previous introduction.
As to the new releases, there were a few surprises. When the estate was first founded, Stephen told me that he doubted he would ever make a zero-dosage wine. (The terms ‘zero-dosage’ or ‘brut nature’ are used for Champagnes where no sugar has been added to adjust the dryness). In the latest set of releases, we have a zero-dosage wine, not that you would know it necessarily if you were not told in advance. Stephen also decided to release the same wine with low dosage, just 4 grams per litre, so that clients can compare and learn a little more about the production method of sparkling wine and how an apparently small variation can noticeably impact the flavour profile. We offer both versions in a specially mixed case below. Aside from his assertion on dosage, Stephen initially told me that his wines would be made without malolactic fermentation. (This is a second fermentation that occurs after alcoholic fermentation, in which tart malic acid in wine converts to softer, creamier lactic acid). In the latest releases, not only do we have wines that have gone through partial malo, but also a wine that has gone through full malolactic fermentation. Once more I think this highlights something important; Hundred Hills is still a young estate and Stephen is keen to experiment with winemaking decisions to fashion the finest wines he can. And finally, Stephen once told me he doubted if he would ever make a Blanc de Noirs, and yet, here we have the inaugural release of Hundred Hills Blanc de Noirs in the 2019 vintage. I may have a joke about these decisions now being taken, but it is the right approach to adjust to what a vintage offers and to continue trialling slight changes in technique. These decisions are more stylistic, rather than qualitative, and it is that approach to finding improvements and adjusting methodology that has taken Hundred Hills so far and so quickly. It may all sound very technical to you, but these are significant decisions that have certainly contributed to delivering a stunning set of new releases.
2018 Zero Dosage, Hundred Hills
2018 Illustration No. 1, Hundred Hills
A mixed case containing three bottles of each at £300 per 6 bottle case in bond
The Zero Dosage and the Illustration No. 1 are the same wine, yet the Illustration has 4 grams per litre of dosage. The earliest ripening Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were selected for this cuvée, which was fermented in oak and aged on its lees for 40 months.
A rare chance for you to compare and contrast – the two wines impress greatly.
The Zero Dosage shows such a fine, crystalline character that it is not hard to understand why it was made in this form. It shows zesty, citrus-nuanced fruit and notes of greengage with classic patisserie notes. A sense of generosity gradually builds as the wine fills out, with a salty mineral note developing to the finish. (SL) Drink now to 2030
The Illustration No. 1 is fascinating to taste alongside as the dosage has nudged the fruit characters towards bruised apple and orchard fruit, with a little more of a baked apple sensation. There is even a hint of caramel within the complex freshly-baked pastry notes. A subtle and marked difference between the two, yet both are beautifully expressive. (SL) Drink now to 2030
2019 Blanc de Noirs, Hundred Hills
£300 per 6 bottle case in bond
The quality of Pinot Noir on the Hillside vineyard showed great quality in the long, dry 2019 vintage, benefiting from over 100 days on the vine, and producing this limited edition Blanc de Noirs. Aged for 30 months on its lees. 5 grams per litre dosage.
A slightly deeper hue in the glass, the Blanc de Noirs reveals discreet notes of juicy red apple and wild strawberry allied to a touch of fresh mint. Showing fine poise on the palate, these red fruit notes develop with hints of pastry and patisserie, all carried by a fine, luxuriant mousse. The intensity impresses, as does the purity, as the palate leads to a finish that captures stone fruit characters, such as nectarine and peach. There is a certain zestiness to finish too with a marked mineral note leading long into the finish. A glorious example that shows the estate’s finest Pinot Noir. Impeccable. (SL) Drink now to 2030
2019 Hillside No. 3, Hundred Hills
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond
The Hillside No. 3 was made from late harvested Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, taken principally from the estate’s south-facing vineyards.
This cuvée reminds me of the 2017 Preamble No. 2 with its ripe, rounded fruit. The nose captures more of a biscuity character to its juicy, orchard fruit. There is a mellowness about this style, with characters of yellow plum and white peach to the fore. It possesses that late harvest signature typical of Hundred Hills, with a broad fruit and a beautifully luxuriant mousse. This is the most opulent style within the range, and finishes with tangy, mouth-watering fruits and hints of creamy, round fruit. So impressive – the ripeness of a healthy late harvest could lead someone astray if tasted blind. (SL) Drink now to 2027+
These four wines represent an exciting set of releases from Hundred Hills. Please let us know of your interest.
All the best,
Simon