2019 Concerto di Fonterutoli, Mazzei
£228 per 6 bottle case in bond
Deep in the glass, the aromas are beautifully expressed, something floral overlays juicy dark reds fruits, and the merest hint of toast. Often Sangiovese can be dwarfed by the more assertive Cabernet but here the blend works perfectly with neither variety out of kilter. The Sangiovese brings lively red berry characters, touches of spice and an abundant, juicy mouthfeel, yet the Cabernet fills out, lends structure and brings dusky fruits and a certain savoury complexity. This is a glossy, textural Super Tuscan, but there is something authentic about it; it isn’t screaming modern winemaking, instead it is subtle, complex and ripe. A remarkably pure example that from recollection is likely to exceed my lofty praise of the 2016 vintage. Why? The Mazzei family has worked hard to bring a more precise and detailed expression to life…the more refined approach to winemaking is in evidence across their enviable portfolio of new releases. Drink 2024-2040 (SL)
97 points, Jane Anson, janeanson.com
This is savoury, dry in the best possible way, with a ton of red fruits, dried roses and herbs, and waves of fragrance. It’s a successful blend where the Sangiovese is dominant, conferring the wine with its warm personality but the Cabernet Sauvignon adds a touch of austerity to the tannins and a sense of quiet confidence. Turmeric and olive tapenade as it opens, alongside raspberry, red cherry and smoky oak, the whole thing both extremely delicate and intensely fragrant. Can drink now with a short carafe - there are tannins here but they are well defined and finely layered - but it will also age. Small amounts of the 2018 were released last winter, but this September sees the first proper release through the Place de Bordeaux. Ageing 18 months in small French oak barrels, 70% new, plus four months in concrete tanks afterwards. One to look out for - great stuff from the Mazzei family, that has been making wine in Tuscany since the 15th century. Drink 2023-2035