The range of wines from Castellare is superb. This small, family run estate in Castellina continues to fly under the radar despite boasting an extraordinary track record of success. There is little doubt Paolo Panerai’s considerable commitments to his media empire and several other wine properties leave little time for marketing. All of the focus goes into the bottle. Not surprisingly, the quality level here is high. Very high. Because Castellare is not that well known, the wines sell for much less than they would otherwise. Every wine in this range from the straight Chianti Classico to the top of the line Sodi di San Niccolo is well worth your time.” – Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media, September 2015
This comment by Antonio Galloni is particularly interesting to us, given the praise that Atlas’ Victoria Stephens-Clarkson MW and Steve Weids had for the wines of Castellare di Castellina following their trip to Italy this past April. Along with a number of producers, they met with Castellare's winemaker, Alessandro Cellai, who took them through the estate's range. From the flagship Sangiovese, ‘I Sodi’ to the straight Chianti Classico, Vicki and Steve were greatly impressed by the quality throughout. Most interesting, they said, were the single varietal Cabernet and Merlot wines produced in very limited quantities. The latter, namely ‘Poggio ai Merli’, is particularly successful and we offer the 2013 vintage at £250/6 bottles in bond.
By way of background, the estate is located in the heart of Chianti and was founded in 1968 by Paolo Panerai who strategically acquired vineyard sites by five neighbouring properties. Although Paolo runs several other wineries (more recently a joint venture in Southern Italy with Lafite-Rothschild), Castellare di Castellina remains very much a family run estate. Several different wines (from Sangiovese to Chardonnay) are produced across just 33 hectares of vines planted on calcareous marls and clay soils. A natural amphitheatre with altitudes of around 370 meters, this site lends itself to the cultivation of elegant and vibrant Merlot.
2013 began with a relatively cool and wet spring followed by a fine, warm summer and early autumn, which ultimately led to great consistency across the region and excellent concentration in the wines. There is a brilliance to the 2013s and many are reminiscent of the firm-structured 2010s. The freshness of 2013 contrasts to the sometimes overripe character in 2011 and, to a far lesser extent in 2012, where careful selection is necessary to identify the best wines. At this stage the 2013s are showing extremely well and, given the elegance and depth of fruit, we believe these will be judged even greater with time in bottle. The 2013 Poggio ai Merli is a dark-berried, complex wine that balances the fine line between fruit intensity and grace. Certainly one for the cellar, this will be drinking from next year to 2028. Below are notes by Monica Larner of the Wine Advocate who has captured the essence of the wine, as well as those of Galloni and Suckling for completeness.
2013 Poggio ai Merli, Castellare di Castellina
£250/6 bottles in bond
Monica Larner, 96 points, erobertparker.com
The 2013 Poggio Ai Merli is a beautiful wine from all sides. This pure expression of Merlot is generous and round with luscious layers that come forward one soft wave at a time. Perfectly ripened cherry, blackberry, spice, toasted almond and grilled Mediterranean herb form a seamless composition. This is one of the best editions of Poggio Ai Merli that I have tasted. The intensity is stunning and the velvety nature of the mouthfeel is impeccable. It is textured, structured and beautiful. This is a bottle for the cellar.
Antonio Galloni, 92 points, vinousmedia.com
A dark, sensual wine, the 2013 Poggio ai Merli (Merlot) offers lovely depth and fine overall balance, with beams of acidity and minerality that play off the intensity of the dark fruit. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke and mocha add nuance on the voluptuous, racy finish. The Poggio ai Merli is the one wine in the range that feels a bit ripe and heavy within the context of Castellare.
James Suckling, 94 points, jamessuckling.com
A full-bodied red with dark chocolate, dried fruit and hints of vanilla. Soft and velvety. Lots of bright and beautiful fruit. Impressively structured. A glorious pure merlot.
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