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2019 Barbaresco, Albino Rocca - 'Gracious, understated Barbarescos'

October 2022

2019 Barbaresco, Albino Rocca 

'Gracious, understated Barbarescos'

2019 Barbaresco, Ronchi, Albino Rocca
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond

Barbaresco, Ovello, Vigna Loreto, Albino Rocca 2019
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond

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For an illustrious viticultural area, Barbaresco has surprisingly few high-profile growers. But there is a growing number of quality conscious producers quietly crafting impeccable expressions in this Piemonte region.
I have been following the wines of Albino Rocca on and off since tasting a fabulous 1996 Vignetto Brich Ronchi a decade ago. While that wine carried its 100% new French oak barrel elevage well, it was a noteworthy characteristic. A change of approach since 2004 in moving towards the use of larger, more neutral, 20 hectolitre casks has allowed for a significantly heightened expression of the outstanding single vineyards that Angelo Rocca had carefully added from the 1960s.

Galloni recently wrote about the wines of Albino Rocca as “gracious, understated Barbarescos that impress with their impeccable balance.” Adding that “Over the last handful of years farming and winemaking have evolved in the direction of greater finesse”. This is certainly borne out in our own tastings.
The Albino Rocca estate dates back to the 1940s, when Albino’s father, Giacomo, sold grapes from the family vineyards and started to make his own wine. Albino’s son, Angelo, established the estate on a firmer footing, adding vineyards in now highly regarded Barbaresco cru from the 1960s onwards. His passion for the vineyards of the region was matched by his passion for flying. Sadly, he died when his plane crashed in 2012 and today it is his three daughters Daniela, Monica, and Paola as well as his son-in-law, Carlo, who run the estate.
Based in Barbaresco itself, Albino Rocca has vines in four different cru vineyards, namely Cotta (in Nieve), Ronchi and Ovello (in Barbaresco), Montersino (in Treiso). As mentioned, the style here has gently shifted over time, moving away from a heavier oak accent towards a style that is marked by greater fruit purity and freshness, one in which each cru is so clearly expressed, the pendulum having swung back to embrace a more traditional winemaking style.
The Ronchi Vineyard is  south of Montestefano, on Neive border. Albino Rocca’s vines in Ronchi are 50-70 years old, planted in soils of calcareous clay, which imparts notable structure and understated power. Meanwhile, the Loreto vineyard is situated within the larger, historic, Ovello Cru. This is one of the estate’s longest held vineyards and the vines are between 35 and 40 years old, planted at 240 metres above sea level with a south-easterly aspect in a sandy subsoil that yields wines of elegance and charm. Sadly, from a mere 0.5 hectares, Albino Rocca produce just 3,000 bottles.
This is a producer from which the wines are beautifully expressed, showing wonderful fruit depth allied to grace and harmony and which clearly illustrate a dedicated, focused team determined to express the range and quality of which Barbaresco is capable in good hands.
We are delighted to be able to offer these two excellent and contrasting cru from the outstanding 2019 vintage from this rejuvenated estate.  

2019 Barbaresco, Ronchi, Albino Rocca
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond

Classic Nebbiolo hue, brick to rim. Gently macerated dark cherry fruit notes.  Floral, violet nuance as well as hints of spice. Sleek, refined, with a creamy intensity, juicy red fruits, mint and sage. A creaminess not from oak but a sense from low yielding vines – a note of measured concentration. The tannins are finely expressed but still provide an underpinning. The purity of the fruit on the finish signals a finely expressed wine with a bright future. Better than anything I have tasted from this address in recent years. Drink 2025-2039


Barbaresco, Ovello, Vigna Loreto, Albino Rocca 2019
£225 per 6 bottle case in bond

Paler in hue perhaps, more perfumed, juicy accent to fruit. Cherry and red fruits, scented. Summer berry touch with a real brightness to the fruit. Creamy red fruits, mineral notes too. More lightly expressed tannins, very refined – dare I say it, Burgundian in style. Makes me think of the Barolo from Verduno. That slightly earthy complexity to the juicy red fruit. There is a sneaky depth here – it builds as the palate progresses. A very classy Barbaresco. Drink 2025-2039

Looking forward to hearing from you.
Take care,


To request a wine, please do not hesitate to contact any member of the Atlas team. We can be reached on +44 (0) 20 3017 2299, or by submitting the form below. Please note that stock may be limited and is always sold on a 'first come, first serve' basis. 

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Atlas Fine Wines Ltd. 

Atlas House, 1 King Street
London, EC2V 8AU
T: +44 (0) 20 3017 2299
F: +44 (0) 20 3017 2290