Since 2001, this pioneering producer has, however, elected to produce something rather different from the norm. Just 7,200 bottles of the III Año are produced from the well-selected fruit of 40 to 50-year-old vines grown on granite-based, sandy soils with some lime and clay, not far from the river Ria. The key to the success of this particular wine is the ageing; the wine is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats and is aged in contact with the fine lees for 7 months, during which time bâtonage is regularly practised. The wine picks up complex nuances from the lees (the fine deposit that forms post fermentation) and by agitating this fine deposit which forms in the vat the winemaker can influence the texture of the wine. The impact of bâtonage is certainly in evidence here and, as Luis Guittérez of The Wine Advocate commented; ‘their wines are good when released, but I like them even better on their second, third and even fourth year’. Indeed, I would be tempted to see how this wine fares after 5-7 years and beyond. Please see below for my tasting note.
2019 Albariño, III Año, Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes
£170 per 6 bottle case in bond
The nose reveals stunning aromas of greengage and pear, ripe apricot and candied citrus peel. This is an incredibly textural wine; on the palate there is a weightiness to the mouthfeel, a creamy leesy note to accompany beautiful layers of ripe orchard fruit and vibrant orange zest. What I find particularly pleasing is the smoky minerality and classic Albariño zippy acidity that accompany the slightly viscous texture, leading to a wonderfully fresh, saline finish. This is clean cut and pure, but with real complexity and depth, and a mouth-watering, long finish. A real surprise and an absolute delight. This is so appealing now, but I would be very intrigued to see how it shows in another 3-5+ years. Drink 2022-2030+ (LH)
Volumes are fairly limited, so please let me know of your interest. Please note that this will be available for delivery in two weeks' time.
Best wishes,
Laura