Accessing high quality white Burgundy for ready drinking at a favourable price is not the easy task that it once was. However, one area that continues to offer value is the Mâconnais and, in particular, the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé to the west of the region. We have been fortunate to access a parcel of magnums of 2015 Pouilly-Fuissé, Tête de Cru, Les Perrières, Domaine J.A. Ferret which we offer at £195 per 3 magnum case in bond.
There is no official classification here - no Premier or Grand Cru - so the rule of thumb is to follow specific domaines. One stand-out in this respect is the domaine of J.A. Ferret (please don’t pronounce the ‘t’)! This 18-hectare estate always ranked highly among producers of Pouilly-Fuissé and so, unsurprisingly it was purchased by Maison Louis Jadot in 2008. Today, under this new ownership, Audrey Braccini is in charge of winemaking and her skills continue the success long-associated with the domaine. Her approach is reassuringly straight-forward; yields are kept low to build concentration, new oak is employed with caution (just 35% on average each year but 25% in 2015) and the wine rests in barrel for 18 months before bottling. Braccini states that, despite the travails of the 2015 vintage, the fruit was super clean and wonderfully ripe at harvest. To retain balance, the key was to harvest quickly in order to preserve freshness. Braccini commented that the ‘2015s were so rich and full-bodied yet not at all heavy’.
Our recent tasting of the Tête de Cru, Les Perrières 2015 revealed just how well-managed the 2015 vintage was chez Ferret. The 2015, tasted from magnum, shows a classic softness to the fruit, white peach and citrus to the fore. There is a fine silky touch to the palate, notes of creamy background toast from the élèvage, although nothing is overstated. The vineyard’s inherent elegance and stoney, mineral accent shine through even in this incredibly ripe vintage. This vintage certainly does not lack zip, but rather it is poised, fresh with a generous, pure fruit that brings together notes of stone fruit and mouth-watering citrus. Tasting this 2015 underlined the quality and value of the Ferret Pouilly-Fuissé, something that is easy to lose sight of as we tend to be drawn to more illustrious appellations in the Côte d’Or.
This is drinking perfectly now… almost too well given how easily a magnum disappeared when our team ‘tasted’. It would undoubtedly age for five years or more if so desired, particularly given the magnum format, which permits slower ageing.
I include two notes from respected critics below, who both concur on the quality.
2015 Pouilly-Fuissé, Tête de Cru, Les Perrières, Domaine J.A. Ferret
£195 per 3 magnum case in bond.
92 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.com
Smoky mineral reduction, citrus and a whisper of wood combine to make for an appealing aromatic profile As is usually the case, the middle weight yet dense flavors are notably finer than those of the Prouges with both better minerality and detail on the lingering if less powerful finish where a hint of grapefruit surfaces. This is almost delicate and presents a definite contrast compared to the rusticity of the Prouges.
91 points, Neal Martin, erobertparker.com
The 2015 Pouilly Fuisse Tete de Cru Perrieres has a vibrant and generous bouquet with well-integrated oak, touches of almond, nutmeg and minerals all developing in the glass. The palate is clean and precise with apricot and orange peel notes, a keen line of acidity and plenty of concentration without the heaviness on the finish. Excellent
Please note this will be available for delivery from the beginning of May.
It is worth highlighting that this might normally be selling for in excess of £250 per 3 magnum or per 6 bottle case. As ever, please let us know of your interest.