‘Grasso fans will not want to miss the 2015 Riserva Rüncot' - Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2021
The first vintage for Grasso’s Riserva ‘Rüncot’ was 1995. Since then, quality has edged ever higher, perhaps on account of the run of recent vintages witnessed in Piemonte, but without doubt, it is in part due to Gianluca Grasso’s winemaking skill. This Monforte d’Alba-based, family-run estate has holdings in two Barolo Cru, namely Ginestra and Gavarini. It is in the latter that the plot named ‘Rüncot’ lies. The Rüncot Riserva is only made in the best vintages, and it comes from 30-year-old vines on a steep, south facing slope which stretches to 350 metres in altitude. These vines grow on a clay soil over a base of limestone.
Rüncot is often a wine that surprises with age and has a track record of delivering in warmer vintages such as 2015, 2007 and 2000. I recall reading Antonio Galloni’s review of the 2000 Rüncot as it was released, in which he suggested that ‘the too-sweet fruit and excessive use of new oak threaten to throw it off balance’ scoring it a mere 89 points. Tasting five years later, he revised his score to 96 points when he tasted from a magnum, describing it as ‘a beautifully layered, perfumed Barolo graced with exquisite elegance and inner perfume. An explosive finish rounds things out in style. This is a stunning, breathtaking wine of the highest level.’ This is a huge shift in a scoring system that seldom extends beyond a range of ten or eleven points, but it illustrates how tricky it can be to read Rüncot at an early stage – interestingly, Galloni comments from experience in his 2015 note that Rüncot only starts to drink well at around ten years of age, a point with which I fully concur, though I think he should adjust his drink dates to reflect the comment! The 2008, which I tasted recently, has entered a real sweet spot, and is showing superbly, certainly ahead of my early expectations.
The recent run of reviews for Rüncot haven’t broken step – all earning considerable praise from Antonio Galloni on Vinous and from Monica Larner on The Wine Advocate. Please see the table below.
Vintage AG ML
2015 96 n/a
2013 97+ 100
2010 96+ 98
2008 95+ 97
Monica Larner seems very taken with recent vintages commenting when she awarded a perfect score to the 2013 on the ‘crowning achievement for the hard-working and passionate Grasso family, led by father Elio and son Gianluca’. Subsequently, the price for the 2013 shot up to over £550 per 3 bottle case in bond! We will be interested to read her comments on the 2015 in due course.
We are offering the 2015 today at £320 per 3 bottle case in bond.