People forget that Chardonnay is not the only white grape variety grown in Burgundy. While there are small amounts of Pinot Beurot (otherwise known as Pinot Gris in Alsace), the most significant variety following Chardonnay is Aligoté. In most instances, Aligoté delivers zesty, citrusy wines of modest standing with marked acidity. In many instances, it is not that much better than the blending backbone of a Kir cocktail for which it was traditionally used. However, there is Aligoté and then there is Aligoté. We are pleased to offer the 2014 Bouzeron, Les Cordères, Domaine Jaquesson at £95 per case of 6 bottles in bond.
Find examples of Aligoté from a specific region, a specific clone and a skilled domaine and you have something far more compelling on hand. There is a reason why those of us in the wine trade who are looking for great, near everyday drinking value in Burgundy, focus our attentions on Aligoté.
The village of Bouzeron is a small appellation in the Côte de Chalonnaise (to the south of Burgundy proper) and enjoys a specific appellation for Bourgogne Aligoté. If you see Bouzeron on the label it is Aligoté and many of the examples from this appellation are well above the norm in terms of quality. Perhaps the qualities of Bozueron are highlighted by the fact that Aubert de Villaine from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti owns vineyard here planted with Aligoté.
I have enjoyed the wines of Domaine Jacquesson over many years and I opted for a case of this to be distributed among our team just recently. Everyone came back seriously impressed – just as much as I was when I first encountered this great value back in the mid-2000s.
The estate has been handed down from generation to generation, now resting in the capable hands of Marie Jacqueson, who took over from her father in 2006. Consisting of 13 hectares across Rully, Mercurey and Bouzeron, the small parcel in Bouzeron was planted by Marie’s grandfather and now vines are nearing 75 years of age. It is worth mentioning that the Jacqueson family wisely chose to plant Aligoté d’Orée, a clone that provides a far more expressive, vivid, aromatic wine than many of the Aligoté produced in Burgundy. Combined with a highly successful vintage for whites such as 2014, the wines can deliver surprising depth and richness, as we found in the Jacqueson Les Cordères. This is an exceptionally fine wine for its level.
2014 Bouzeron, Les Cordères, Domaine Jaquesson
£95 per case of 6 bottles in bond (equates to £21.50 per bottle including duty and VAT.)
Aromatically expressive, this well-crafted Bouzeron reveals complex aromas of yellow stone fruit, greengage and citrus fruits, with a gentle leesy note in the background. The palate shows fine tension, with zingy, citrus leading to riper, juicier stone fruit notes with the merest hint of spice. That leesy quality adds intrigue and the inherent acidity maintains a taut, lively impression with just enough richness to offset. This has just started to open out and drink well, but has enough depth and breadth of character to last 5-6 years if you wished, but frankly it is so enjoyable right now. A class leading example that showcases the virtues of the d’Orée clone.Drink to 2022. (SL)
This is a comparatively humble wine, but it showed so well and is such a firm favourite of mine, that we felt compelled to offer it.