Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars is synonymous with Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon given its long and distinguished reputation. The estate was founded in 1970 when the Napa was undergoing a revival following the years of prohibition. It is worth remembering that in the mid-sixties there were fewer than 20 wineries operating in the Napa.
What cemented Stag’s Leap’s reputation was its performance in the 1976 Paris Tasting, now referred to as ‘The Judgement of Paris’. This was a large, professional blind tasting of Bordeaux and Californian wines organized by Steven Spurrier. It is incredible to think that a Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon, the first ever vintage produced, made from barely three year old vines, was judged to be the finest – over and above Bordeaux First Growths, Châteaux Haut-Brion and Mouton-Rothschild amongst others. Given the credentials of the French tasters on the panel, this was seen as a great coup for Californian wine; immediately and understandably pushing California into the limelight.
Not all has been plain-sailing for Stag’s Leap however. In the mid-eighties the estate was deemed to be on top of its game, but the nineties and early 2000s represented a patchier period for such a notable estate. Since 2008 however, it appears that Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has turned the corner with quality returning to that of previous highs. Antonio Galloni commented in 2012, that ‘the improvement in quality that has taken place here over the last few years is simply remarkable’ and he is not alone in highlighting this dramatic upward shift in quality. In many ways this resurgence was to be expected following the Antinori family’s purchase of a 15% share in the estate in 2007. Renzo Cotarella, who oversees the production of all the Antinori wines in Tuscany and Umbria as well as those from their Napa Estate, Antica, was brought in to consult. His impact should not be underestimated as considerable strides forward were made in 2009 and 2010, with his efforts culminating in a great showing in the 2012 vintage.
The estate is situated in Stags Leap District, which is a sub-appellation of the Napa Valley; indeed the first such district to be recognized. Three separate wines are made here, all Cabernet Sauvignon, two are single vineyard wines (S.L.V. and FAY), and the third is a blend, incorporating fruit from each of these vineyards. It is the blend, named ‘Cask 23’ which is often the finest of the three; a wine which while rich aims for elegance above all with mouth-filling dark fruit allied to mineral notes. I have always found that, in contrast to some blockbuster Napa Valley Cabernets, there is an effortlessness and restraint to the best vintages of Stag’s Leap. Given the quality of the 2012 vintage in the Napa, it will be fascinating to see how the Cask 23 performs with time. The balance here is such however that this can be broached in three of four years’ time or cellared over the following decade.
Robert Parker was a great advocate for the estate back in the day, and it would seem that the 2012 has reignited his interest in this illustrious Napa estate, signaled by a score of (97-100) points for his first tasting of this vintage.
2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Cask 23’, Stag’s Leap Cellars
(97-100) Robert Parker
£695 per 6 bottle case in bond
The spectacular 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23 appears to be the finest Cask 23 since the glory years of the mid-eighties. It boasts a dense purple color, complex notes of spice box, Christmas fruitcake, blackcurrant jam, mulberries and spring flowers, as well as a full-bodied, opulent personality. It is a profound example of this iconic wine that went through a period of mediocrity in the mid- to late-1990s prior to being sold. Drink now-2038.
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