Simon and the team at Atlas tasted the 2012 Chianti Classico from Fontodi yesterday at our buyer Vicki Stephens-Clarkson’s insistence and was seriously impressed by the quality on show.
I guess, like a number of clients, I have seldom found great quality in straight Chianti Classico... I might as well say it as I see it. Certainly, I have rated the leading wines of the region - such as the Rancia Riserva from Felsina Berardenga, the Vigneto Bellavista from Castello di Ama or even Fontodi’s Vigna del Sorbonne - but the more humble-priced Chianti often fail to ignite much of my interest. To be frank, I invariably find better value at this level outside of the Chianti classification. That all said, the 2012 Chianti Classico from Fontodi really surprised me and I am pleased to offer it at £75 per 6 bottle case in bond (£160 per 6 case of magnums).
I had never tried the Fontodi Chianti Classico in any vintage although Vicki, having previously worked for the UK agent who ships Fontodi into the UK, was confident that it would impress. She commented that it is effectively the class-leader at this price point and I have to agree; without a doubt I place it ahead of any other examples at this level that I have encountered over the years.
I think the warmer 2012 vintage conditions have helped in creating a more opulent mouthfeel than would be found in a cooler, racier vintage, such as 2010. That mouthfeel renders the 2012 instantly appealing, although this is no supple, simple Chianti; there is an uncommon density to the fruit and a structure that will see it age for over a decade...and all for £75 per 6 bottle case, it is something of a snip!
By way of background, the renowned Fontodi estate covers some 80 hectares in Panzano in the heart of the Chianti Classico district, south of Florence. There is a fascinating feature to this extensive vineyard; it lies in the famous Conca d’Oro (literally the golden shell), a south-facing, natural amphitheatre in shape which captures the sun’s rays, thereby giving the wines great ripeness, intensity and elegance. Sangiovese, the grape variety that dominates the Fontodi estate to the tune of 80%, excels in such conditions and more specifically on the prevalent galestro (schist–based) soils.
To my mind, ripeness can be easily won in notably warm Tuscan vintages but the sense of vibrancy and elegance can often be missing. The Fontodi style, that I have learned to appreciate from the top down, captures a terrific ripeness, but the overriding hallmarks are the plush, glossy mouthfeel and vibrant fruit notes that last long into the finish. Following this tasting of the impressive, entry level 2012, I am pleased to note that these hallmarks of quality are not solely limited to the leading wines in their portfolio. You could broach this Chianti Classico now, and if you wish to do so, by allowing it a chance to breathe in a carafe or decanter, or give it a couple of years to ease into its stride.
The full note from Antonio Galloni, who suggests it has the capability to age until 2027, is below.
2012 Chianti Classico, Fontodi
92 points, Antonio Galloni
£75 per 6 bottle case in bond
The 2012 Chianti Classico is round, sweet and super-expressive. Dark red cherry, spice and tobacco meld together as this silky, open-knit Chianti Classico shows off its inviting personality. Succulent and racy to the core, the 2012 will drink well pretty much upon release. This is another fabulous showing from Fontodi. 2017 to 2027.
And for those who, like me, may be inclined to cellar this vintage a little longer, how about buying in remarkably affordable magnums at £160 per case of six magnums in bond?