Please see below for the two remarkably fine picks from our recent office rosé tasting. The aim of the tasting was to identify two examples, each stylistically different and each amongst the finest example available of rosé. As Simon comments, the two below stood out from the pack by some considerable distance.
I know many clients consider rosé to be bland and of only modest quality. This association is a shame as the best examples - those offering great finesse, elegance and purity - are often overlooked. The two that we have selected are hugely impressive and are the result of an extensive sample tasting the other Friday. Not the most arduous task we have undertaken on a sunny afternoon, I must say.
2013 Château d’Esclans Rosé, Côtes de Provence
£80 per 6 bottle case in bond (£18.46 per bottle duty-paid inc. VAT)
Sacha Lichine’s estate has carved out an enviable reputation for its Provençal rosé, with a vast array of different styles within the range. The level of expertise here is high, with owner Sacha Lichine of Bordeaux Château Prieuré-Lichine at the helm and former Mouton-Rothschild winemaker Patrick Léon in charge of the vinification. Sacha purchased this beautifully-situated 44 hectare estate in 2006, and his decision has certainly paid off. What makes d’Esclans such a fine rosé? Several key factors contribute to the quality; old, low-yielding Grenache vines approaching 90 years of age, part-blending of a white grape variety known as Rolle (Vermentino in Italy) which adds texture and mouthfeel as well as aromatic lift, and a remarkably sensitive approach to wine-making.
Classically pale in hue, typically Provençal, the aromas here offer ripe berries, with a touch of herb and spice. What impresses most is the clarity of flavour and texture. Silky, seamless, understated fruit with hints of bright red berry and vanilla from partial oak elevage. This has a fragrant accent, a lightness of touch and yet a fullness of flavour. It lingers superbly and finishes dry with an almost floral lift. A stunning rosé – surely this is the model Provençal rosé. Drink now to 2017. Simon Larkin MW
2014 Tavel Rosé, ‘La Reine des Bois’, Domaine de la Mordorée
£80 per 6 bottle case in bond (£18.46 per bottle duty-paid inc. VAT)
Robert Parker once commented that this Tavel was ‘year in, year out, one of the finest rosésmade in the world’ and after our fairly exhaustive tasting, we wholeheartedly concur. I visited Christophe Delorme’s Domaine de La Mordorée many years ago – long before it truly burst onto the scene – and was convinced this estate would gain critical acclaim. Stretching over 60 hectares, the domaine is situated in Lirac although Monsieur Delorme has holdings in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and also in Tavel, which accounts for the smallest production. The flagship wine from each of the three appellations are named ‘ La Reine des Bois’ but they are not made every year, rather, they are only produced when quality dictates. Even when a vintage does allow for the desired quality, the ‘Reine des Bois’ production is seldom more than a few percent of production. The Tavel Rosé is a complex blend of Grenache (60%), Clairette (15%), Syrah (10%), Cinsault (10%) and Bourbelenc (5%).
Far deeper pink in hue, brighter with a slightly amber tinge. The aromas are striking, much bolder with notes of red berry allied to zesty, scented orangey notes. There is fine breath and intensity to the fruit on the palate of this full-flavoured rosé. This is a striking, intense rosé which shows impressive balance between fruit and acidity. Vibrant, intense and mouth filling, this Tavel shows a racy, mineral vein to the finish and great persistence. Possessing the weight to be enjoyed with food and more than sufficient, ample, ripe fruit to be enjoyed on its own. It is not hard to see why this wine enjoys such an enviable reputation. Drink now to 2017. Simon Larkin MW.