Simon has mentioned before that we have been devoting a little more attention to the wines of Spain. Undoubtedly, there are a number of remarkably fine wines emerging from less recognisable regions as much as there are some absolute gems at sensible prices coming from more familiar regions.
Bodegas Izadi is situated in Villabuena in the Rioja subzone known as ‘Alavesa’ which lies to the north of Rioja. Lying at a much higher altitude than most of Rioja, this modern, hillside winery was founded by Gonzalo Anton in 1987. Today it is his son, Lalo, who runs this considerable estate which extends over 186 hectares of vineyards in the three Alavesa districts of Samaniego, Abalos and La Puebla de Labaraca. Aside from the age of the vines, restricted yields and exacting standards implemented, the key to this wine’s style is the moderating influence of altitude. The vineyards are situated at 600 metres above sea level and, as often we have commented, cool nights are crucial to the retention of aroma, acidity and the overall balance of the resultant wine.
Yesterday we tasted the impressive 2010 Reserva which was aged for 14 months in American oak barriques and then a further two years in bottle before release. This is one of the first 2010 Rioja that I have tasted and already I have high hopes for this vintage, which has been rated ‘excellent’ by the regional authorities. If high quality is evident in a comparatively humble wine such as this, it could be rewarding to explore the upper end in due course – something we will certainly do.
I was very impressed by our tasting of this vintage from Izadi. The aromatics reveal bright, vibrant fruit with a pleasing fragrant aspect and gentle background note for vanillin from the oak. On the palate the fruit is ripe and pure, revealing that juicy, freshly crushed character that seems to typify Alavesa Rioja. With time in the glass, the fruit really opened out to reveal a good core of dark fruit allied to cranberry notes. This is a deceptively rich, very well-balanced wine that can easily be enjoyed now if given the chance to breathe in a decanter or alternatively, it can be cellared for three or four years. Either way at £120 per 12 bottle case in bond, it is something of a bargain, as the note and score below from a certain Mr. Parker attest!
2010 Rioja Reserva, Bodegas Izadi
92 points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate (June 2014)
£120 per 12 bottle case in bond
Bodegas Izadi’s owner, the Anton family, also owns the well-known Finca Villacreces in Ribera del Duero. Izadi is a relatively large estate with more than 375 acres in Rioja Alavesa. About 40% of the vineyards are over 70 years of age, which is quite impressive. The 2010 Reserva is another remarkable bargain from European Cellars. Made from 100% Tempranillo aged 14 months in American and French oak, it boasts a dense purple color as well as a big, sweet perfume of cassis, vanillin, graphite and forest floor. Full-bodied and ripe with terrific texture, purity and palate presence, this wine can be drunk now or cellared for 5-10 years, possibly longer.